A strap makes the watch. It adds character and can literary change the whole look of a watch around. Take for example Panerai, who’s watches are all very close together in style and design, yet at the same time can look totally different depending which strap you put on the watch. This was certainly one of the strengths of this brand, and undoubtfull contributed to its success. Ironically, many of those straps came from third parties, which sometimes even completely specialized in making straps for Panerai’s. A smart tactic, because despite the fact that Panerai probably let some money go by on the sale of straps, the increasing popularity of their watches probably made that up for that in ten fold.
A lot of choice for Panerai fan’s
Unfortunately is this not the approach most watch manufacturers choose. More often then not they charge high prices for straps, but sometimes it seems that all reason goes out the door. In 2009 Breitling sold relatively simple plain leather straps for € 120,-. Well known strap manufacturers like Rios and DiModell sold a similar quality strap for about one quarter of the price Breitling asks.
That brands charge more for a strap then a third party supplier is of course logical. Most watch brands do not make the straps themselves, so they have a supplier that makes it for them. In addition, their retailers need to make money on the sale of a strap; so more chains lead to a higher price.
Straps are a nice and relatively steady source of income for the brands and their retailers. Even if a customer does not buy a new watch, sooner or later he will need to replace the strap. It seems that there is a current trend in which watch manufacturers make sure that the only place where a customer can buy a strap that fit’s his precious watch is the official retailer.
Perfect fit…for a price
Two brands know this strategy already longer; Ebel and Bertolucci. Both brands favored a system in which the straps are secured by two screws coming from underneath the case. This does indeed ensures a beautiful and almost seamless fit of the strap, but replacement straps are hard to come by. Official dealers have them, but you pay a high price for a very limited selection of colors and types of leather. In case of Bertolucci the added problem is that it’s retailer coverage has been cut back dramatically in the last couple of years, leaving proud owners in some countries with no dealers to turn to for something as simple yet crucial as a new strap.
Watch horror; Need new strap yet no dealer to supply it
Sometimes demand solves the problem. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore is another watch that asks a very specific type of strap. At first only Audermars Piguet itself was able to provide you with one, but thanks to the enormous success of this model range, you now also see third party suppliers taking the plunge and invest in the development and tools to make such straps.
With the Royal Oak Offshore this is also possible because the strap itself does not require any special fittings or parts, it is attached to the case by a tube that goes through the holes of the strap. The in 2009 introduced IWC Aquatimer 2000 uses a system in which you secure the strap by a kind of lever that you push in the case. Very smooth, very user-friendly, but again a replacement strap can only come from IWC.
User friendly with a watchlife commitment to IWC
Another current trend are technically advanced straps that are part of the architecture of the watch. Linde Werdelin as well as Concord make watches with beautifully “integrated” straps. Great to see and often innovative, but also so advanced that a third party supplier will probably think twice before it starts to make straps that will fit.
Strap architecture
An additional aspect that might play a role how recognizable the overall look of the watch is. When a specific watch can only be fitted with a limited type of straps, you sell a lot of more or less similar watches, creating a very recognizable look. This is attractive for the brand itself, which can market a clear and constant look, but also for (potential) owners who enjoy a watch that can easier be identified by other people. Hublot is a brand that already knew this from day one. Just like with the early Ford’s you could order any color as long as it was black…and rubber for that matter.
In the end it is still the consumer that decides wither the choice from brand and model is enough to show his individual taste, and pays the price that comes with it, or that a strap is something that should be able to change with the seasons, or simply with that great new shirt your tailor just delivered.
2009 was the year that TimetatioN.com lifted off, it was a year of special reviews and interesting watches and pens. For 2010 you can expect more special reports on a wide variety of watch and pen related topics, more opinion pieces and of course more reviews of watches and pens! Thanks for your support in 2009!
Have a great Christmas with your friends and family and a happy, healthy New Year!
For many people, wither you are a collector or connoisseur, the first good watch will soon get company of the second, then the third and so on. This sure is a pleasant luxury, but it also causes some problems. One of those problems is how to store them. Some people keep them in their original boxes, others simply in a drawer. In this review we look at a more elegant solution.
Overall appearance
The watchcase is certainly an eye-catcher, although in a very subtle way. The elegant lines and warm colors of the rosewood veneer are highlighted by the light rim around the top part of the case. The key with tassel gives it a sense of importance. The size of the case is nice, big enough to store a decent amount of watches, yet still small enough to store easily.
Yes, this is veneer!
The veneer used on this case is of a high quality. You really have to look very closely to realize that it is a veneer. The luxurious look of the veneer is even increased by a nice and shiny coat of polish, giving the box a velvety matt shine.
The key does not have much too it. It is a very simply one, more for show then for practical use. However, it is possible to lock the case and the lock closes the case firmly. This is quite a surprise, and will be enough to prevent most kids to take daddy’s or mommy’s watch for a ride. More serious predators like burglars will find no match in the lock.
Behind lock & key
The hinges are very nicely made and firmly screwed in the case. Although there finish reveals that they are plated, the construction is much better then one would expect with a case at this price level. More important, they work smoothly and look great in combination with the beige interior and the rosewood veneer.
A hinge you can trust
Storage
The watchcase is made to store eight watches, each in an individual compartment with a firm yet soft pillow. The watches have plenty of room, so even larger watches in the 44mm range can be stored easily and safely. Every part of the inside of the case that a watch can even remotely come in contact with is lined with a soft beige lining. The lining in the lid is even filled so that it gently pushes the larger watches on their place without damaging them.
Enough soft space inside
Sizes
Lenght: 255 mm
Depth: 210 mm
Height: 80 mm
Single compartment length: 51 mm
Single compartment depth: 83 mm
Single compartment height: 42 mm
Daily use
In daily use this watchcase really proves its value. Eight watches give a nice selection to match most activities and/or clothes. Also the size proofs to be very practical. It can easily find a place in the bedroom, dressing room, walk-in closet or safe. The lock proved to be too much of a hassle to use, and since the top is heavy enough to ensure a perfect fit when closed, there is not really a need.
Enough to keep the kids out of the box
The rounded corners of the case made it easy to get a comfortable grip on the top, which can literary be opened with one finger. This is also thanks to the anti-slip fabric on the bottom of the case, which keeps it firmly grounded. The hinges where the best surprise of all, when the top is completely opened you have to shake the case really hard before it falls down. Therefore, it is almost impossible for the top to fall and damage one of your watches when you want to take it out.
Quite cushiony; perfect for any watch
The pillows are big enough to keep the watches nicely in place, yet at the same time they are also small enough to allow most metal bracelets to be closed. They do not fill the compartment complete so there is some room for the watch to more. This may sound not ideal, but in practice it works fine especially since everything is lined with a very soft fabric. Big advantage is that there is lots of room in every compartment, so even the big watches can be placed next to each other without a problem.
Even enough room for big ones!
Packaging
How do you pack a box? Exactly, in a larger box. This rosewood watchcase was wrapped in packaging material and came in a nice white cardboard box. A very practical solution and a great way to protect damage during transit, but also to store the watchcase when not in use.
Price
Most impressive part of this watchcase is perhaps its price. For 32.99 Pound Sterling, this might not be the cheapest watchcase, but it will be most certainly a challenge to find this quality and look for that amount.
Competition
Watchcase can be found at many price-levels, from extremely cheap plastic, ones to hand carved specimens made from the finest woods or sometimes even precious metals. The competition is almost endless, with also quite a difference in quality.
Conclusion
This watchcase is a pleasant surprise. Based on its price the expectations are low, but the delivered quality is quite high. It is first and foremost a very practical watchcase, with thought thru details that you will benefit from daily. Apart from that, it is also a very beautiful case, taking the common watchcase to the next level. Sure, it is veneer but of a very high quality and with a great look, and at this price range you will safe enough to already have a nice start for the next watch!
Special thanks for Nick Bradshaw of Watch-Winder.co.uk for providing the case for this review.
Many watch enthusiasts will know the feeling; the desire to own a one of a kind watch, tailored to your own ideas and taste. Making this desire a reality is quite a challenge, with as biggest hurdle; money. There are various companies that can and will cater to your need for a custom made watch, but their prices are usually high and most watch enthusiasts will not be able to spend this amount of money on a watch. But there is hope….all you need is a visit to the doctor!
This may sound strange, but your ticket to an affordable, custom-made watch can actually be obtained from a doctor, or to be more specific, an anesthesiologist. Confused? Well, to make it even more confusing; these watches come from New Jersey, USA. This is the home of Pejman Foroush, practicing anesthesiologist and watchmaker.
While in his work he guides patients safely through an operation, in his spare time he creates dreams for watch collectors under the name of “PyroLume”. So, does that make him yet another amateur that tinkers on watches in his attic? Definitely not. Although well aware of his current limitations, he has two main specialties that set him apart from the rest.
True PyroLume dials
First there is his passion for dials. As no other does Pejman realize that the dial is the face of the watch, and one of the most powerful parts to give it its identity. This believe made him experiment with a wide variety of materials ranging from carbon fiber to more exotic choices like mother-of-pearl and meteorite. All these dials come with an extraordinary design for the numerals and markers, creating the unique PyroLume look.
PyroLume sports watch with Mother of Pearl dial
Secondly, there is his expertise in luminous compounds, hence the name PyroLume. To compliment his bold dial designs Pejman created his own line of luminous compounds. He does this by mixing these Swiss made compounds with dye, solvents and binders according to his own recipes. The result is not only a wide variety of colors (including pitch black!) but also luminous hands and markers that do provide you with a glow that literal last all night long!
For the rest he relies on various suppliers to provide him with parts that he cannot make himself. This has as great advantage that the overall quality is very good. The down side might be that it limit your options a bit, but you do get an almost unbeatable price for that in return and still own a watch tailored to your own tastes and wishes.
Of course this all may sound like the good doctor has a found a nice recipe, but is it really the cure for that burning desire for a high quality, custom-made watch? Lets put two examples to the test.
First up is a watch that got the name “Copperhead”. The name is a reference not only to the snake, but can also be taken quite literal; the dial is actually made of copper.
Overall appearance
This copper dial is also the main attraction of this watch, yet it is not the only one. Also the large, flieger-styled case commands attention. The two combined give a very powerful combination. They surprisingly fit the theme together, although that was also the aim; to create a flieger watch with a twist, or two, because with the Copperhead we are not only breaking with the traditional black dial, but also gave a PyroLume twist on the traditional dial lay-out, in particular the triangle that marks 12 o’clock.
Copperhead in full
Feature
The features of the Copperhead are very trimmed down. Apart from the dial and case, the watch only has an hour and minute hand. This to accomplish a clean-cut dial, with nothing distracting. There is one other feature, but that one can be found at the back of the watch in the form of a glass back, which provides an unobstructed view of the watch movement.
Dial/hands
The dial of the Copperhead is created from a solid piece of copper, where the markers are cut out by a CNC machine. The markers are filled inwith custom made luminous compounds, although they appear to be all the same color in daylight, at night the hour markers and hands turn green, while the rest and the two dots above the 12 o’clock triangle turn blue. They do this in such an intense way that it is quite a spectacular sight that not many other watches offer.
Raw dial
The magnificent dial design is created by engine turning. Interesting about the method that Pejman used to create this dial, is that there is no physical contact between the polisher and the dial. The whole dial is covered in a mineral oil that has a fine abrasive material suspended in it. A simple viscous coupling spins this substance against the dial creating the desired effect. In this case the off set was determined in such a way that the rounds would fall over each other in such a way that it looks like the scales of reptile, another reference to it’s name.
Close up: the Copperhead dial
Despite the unconventional dial are the hands shaped in classic, flieger-style. Their segmented shape works well in combination with the case, and they are very easy to spot on the copper dial. They also provide enough room for quite a glow, with PyroLume’s luminous compound.
Case
The stainless case is made in Germany and features many interesting details. First of all it is completely brushed, giving the watch a nice satin look that makes the dial pop even more. Secondly, there is this big, diamond shaped crown that measures a whopping 5 mm, making it very distinct.
A very nice way to house a movement
Ironically, the case itself is not even that large. With a diameter of 42 mm, it is one of the smaller cases to hold the 36.6 mm Unitas movement. This movement can be admired in full through the mineral glass back.
Apart from the crown, also other features add to the Flieger-style feeling of this watch. One is the coin edge bezel that gives the watch a distinct look, the other one are the screws that are used to secure the strap. They are fully functional, so no pushpin is hidden between the lugs.
Sizes
0.Diameter 8 to 2: 42 mm
0.Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 47 mm
0.Lug width: 22 mm
0.Buckle width: 20 mm
0.Thickness: 11 mm
Movement
No corners where cut when it came to the movement. Although a Unitas 6497 is not a very unlikely choice for a flieger-styled watch like the Copperhead, this particular Unitas movement was actually supplied by Soprod. This name might ring a bell, most likely in reference with Panerai. It was Soprod that supplied Panerai with customized Unitas-movements for several of its models.
A perfect fit; the Unitas 6497
The movement features Geneva striping and blued screws, creating a very appealing sight especially since the blue screws give a dynamic contrast with the red of the 5 jewels at are visible from the back of the movement.
Although the movement has the option of adding a second’s hand, the Copperhead has not one. This is done to keep the dial as clean as possible, and to get the maximum effect of the engine turned copper. However this didn’t held Pejamn back to regulate the Copperhead to a daily deviation of only 1 second a day, and makes the watch a very reliable companion.
Strap
The strap is custom made for this watch by Inspire Workshop. When going through such trouble to have a watch custom made, it does not make sense to settle for a regular strap.
The strap itself is quite a personality, but with a lug width of 22 mm this is almost unavoidable. Despite the elegant look of the dial did the strap mainly had as its purpose to reinforce the vintage look of the watch. A horn back crocodile strap certainly gets that done, and also adds a exotic sense to the watch.
Strap & dial; an interesting match
The light brown color of the strap softens its look a little bit, so that it is a nice match with the dial color. Off white stitching was chosen to complement the color of the markers.
On the wrist
That the Copperhead is a personality in its own right certainly becomes clear on the wrist. Despite its relatively modest diameter of 42 mm it does wear quite larger. This is mainly created by the large dial, but also by the prominent lugs and large crown. Where the lugs definitely add to the wearing comfort of the Copperhead, it is the crown that takes some of this away. Due to its size it is rubbing against the wrist when moving, causing occasional discomfort.
On the other hand is the crown a delight to use. Winding the movement is not only butter smooth, but also very easy since you actually have something to hold on to. This makes also the setting of the watch an easy task.
The black hands provide a nice contrast with the dial, making reading the time something that can be done in a glance, and thanks to the rich luminous compound it doesn’t matter whether it’s day or night. The makers also play a big part in this. With its easy detectible 12 o’clock marker, your brain only needs an instance to decipher the correct time.
A true PyroLume
But the real star is of course the dial itself. Always playing with the light, never looking the same; it is a first class eye catcher. The earthly tone of the copper gives the dial a rich, warm color that is even enhanced by the use of AR-coating on the sapphire glass. People are instantly drawn by the scale design of the engine turned dial. Its almost like it lures people to look at it. Definitely be ready to expect a lot of glances and comments at your watch, when wearing a watch like this. Also be prepared to spend a great deal of time looking at the dial yourself, since it is not only luring other people to look at it…..
The second watch is called Son of Movement. This in reference to a painting by Rene Magritte, the surrealistic, Belgium painter that adorns this watch in a special, and unexpected way.
Overall appearance
Next to the Copperhead is the Son of Movement much bolder. Its industrialist design can hardly be called elegant, yet everything seems to serve a purpose. At the same time this gives the watch a more modern look, also because of the black dial combined with the black strap. It may all look a bit minimalistic at the first glance, but the Son of Movement houses a couple of “detailed surprises”.
A bold statement yet with many subtle details
Feature
The watch has little features that come into view right away. It brings the watch back to its essence. 3 hands to tell time, that’s it. Again this was done to create a clean and balanced dial, that speaks its power by “less is more”. It’s main feature can once again be found at the back, for the discretion of its owner to see and enjoy, although this time it is not only the movement that stands out..
Dial/hands
The dial looks solid black from a distance but at close range it reveals its true nature. It is actually carbon fiber, giving the dial a beautiful wave pattern in monochrome colors. This really gives the dial more depth and personality, then when it was just a plain black dial.
Carbon dial before installation in the case
Personality is also something given to this watch by the impressive dial design. The minute markers go round the dial like a fan, while four bold numerals identify the hours. A careful observer can even see a slight difference in color between the blue and green luminous compound, making it even easier to tell time. Although the movement supports a date-function, this was not incorporated in the dial to maintain balance and integrity.
Monochrome with bright blue steel
The hands are quite slender, obstructing as little of the dial as possible, yet at the same time clearly indicating the time. They are blued, which give a special effect on the black carbon fiber dial. Again this is something that takes a second look to realize, except when the light hits them at the right angle and they turn bright blue.
The idea for blued hands on a black dial came actually from a Panerai. The limited edition PAM 172 already did this in 2003. The striking effect it had on me was the inspiration to also do this on the Son of Movement.
Case
The case is quite exceptional. It exists out of 3 pieces that are bolted together by four screws on the corners. An interesting dynamic is formed by the fact that the back- and front plate not only cover the lugs almost completely, but also stick out a bit on the side. This creates a beautiful architecture adds a nice dose of charisma.
The parts that make up the case
Since the lugs are a bit tucked away under the watch, it gives the impression that the strap seamlessly goes over into the case. Fortunately it does not limit the straps movements as some 1970’s watches did where the strap went almost into the case. For the rest the lugs are pretty straight forward, almost blunt in their design. A pushpin holds the strap in place.
Bold yet beautiful
The crown is rather small compared to the case, but that has the additional benefit that it does not interfere greatly with the design of the case. It is crafted in the same style and provides more then enough grip to easily set and wind the watch.
A crown for interesting architecture
A slope ring divides the case from the sapphire crystal that adorns the front of the watch. A smart move, because it is a very simple yet elegant way of adding more depth into the case design.
Sizes
0.Diameter 8 to 2: 47 mm
0.Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 46 mm
0.Lug width: 22 mm
0.Buckle width: 20 mm
0.Thickness: 14 mm
Movement
Where the Copperhead relied on a manual wind movement does the Son of Movement use an automatic movement. Again Swiss quality was preferred in the form of the reliable ETA 2824-2. A very “raw” version was chosen, so a minimum in decorations to match the design of the rest of the watch. This workhorse movement is a perfect fit for this bold watch.
Source of inspiration; Magritte’s Son of Man
Don’t take that “fit” too literal because with a diameter of 25.6 mm it can almost swim in the case of the Son of Movement, and that opens up some other options. Another specialty of PyroLume are engravings, more often then not of an impressive nature. The large size of the Son of Movement provides more then enough space to do this. But what if we take the engraving to the next level and let it interact with the movement?
CNC engraving by PyroLume
To do this we turned to the work of Belgium painter Rene Magritte (1898 – 1967), whose surrealistic work include a painting he made in 1964 of himself wearing a suit and a bowler hat. In front of the face is a distinct, hovering, green apple that hides most of the facial features. Magritte called this painting “Le Fils de l’Homme” or in English; “Son of Man”.
Original design for caseback
This painting became the inspiration for the back of the watch. Because of the relatively small diameter of the movement, a glass back was created. Around this the outline of a man in a suit with a bowler hat was expertly engraved. In this case it is not an apple that makes the face invisible, but the watch movement. To keep the movement into place a custom, stainless steel movement holder was crafted. In reference to the Magritte painting, the watch got the name “Son of Movement”, which is also engraved on the back.
Stainless steel movement holder to make sure that the ETA 2824-2 doesn’t go anywhere
Apart from these engravings does the Son of Movement also feature the TimetatioN-logo. This logo has been around for quite some years, but only recently got worldwide recognition with the launch of TimetatioN.com. This is the first time it is actually used on a watch.
CAD drawing towards final case back design
Also the fact that this watch is a “piece unique” is visible at the back, where it shows that this watch is No.1 in a limited edition of 1. Last but most certainly not least is also the country of birth of the Son of Movement engraved in the case back.
Son of Movement’s engraved back
Strap
Also the strap for Son of Movement is custom made by Inspire Workshop. Although it is again a horn back crocodile, the black color camouflages this quite a bit. Nevertheless has the strap quite a presence. Again, a 22mm wide strap can hardly help this.
The horn back crocodile has one unexpected advantage; although it is in good harmony with the rest of the watch, it kind of tones down the industrial look of the watch, making it easier to blend in with different type of clothing. Blending in is of course a bit of an overstatement taken the size of the watch.
Interesting dynamics; black & blue, natural & industrial
To complement the hands, the strap was fitted with dark blue stitching. For the casual eye this will not stand out, but overall is makes for a more complete balance between watch and strap.
On the wrist
The Son of Movement is surprisingly comfortable to wear. The back is completely flat and rests nicely against the wrist. It’s weight or size does not bother one little bit. It is almost like the watch becomes weightless as soon as it is strapped on. Of course, it has a substantial presence on the wrist, but this is mainly due to the looks of the watch.
Details make the watch; deep engravings on the back
Again, the PyroLume dial design proofs it is value in day to day life. Under almost every circumstance it is easy to read the time at a glance. Even when it has not been exposed too much light it still radiates enough to tell time, even in tricky circumstances like for example twilight.
Easy to read from dusk till dawn
One other thing that stands really out about this watch is the fact that it is not intimidating. Big watches often have the tendency to look overpowering, while the Son of Movement seems more soften down on the wrist. Two aspects play a main part in this. First there are the slope edges on the top plate of the case. They reflect the light in such a way that the silhouette of the watch is nicely outlined and give it a soft, rounded look. Secondly it is again the smart dial design that, together with the case, divide the watch in segments that are very pleasing for the eye. This all brings an almost unmatched balance in the overall design of the watch.
Price
Custom watches have custom prices, yet the average price PyroLume charges for one of it’s custom watches often does not even get you a seat at the table of one of the Swiss entry level brands. Of course individual choices can run up the price, but not merely as fast as one would think. PyroLume’s starting point is about $350,-, with an average for $650,- for its more elaborate pieces with Swiss mechanical movements.
Competition
Custom made watches at this price level are rare, especially those who can actually provide you with Swiss movements, engravings and custom materials for dials. Even established Swiss brands have difficulty providing watches for this price without the customization.
Two of a kind, yet each with a unique character
Conclusion
Is watch making back in the USA? After RGM and Kobold now PyroLume is the hottest new addition in the desert that was once an innovative watch making country called the USA. With these pioneers it is finding its way back to its roots and re-establish the once renowned reputation.
PyroLume’s innovative approach really set it apart from many mainstream brands. The materials used for the dials are exotic and sometimes even unexpected, the designs stunning and innovative, it’s engravings the cherry on top. His expertise in luminous compounds literal shows, and provide easy reading of the time under almost all circumstances.
Something good is coming from the USA
The best move Pejman did was to focus on his strengths and find suppliers for the additional parts. This ensures a very high building quality, especially in reference to it’s price. It literal brings a well made, custom watch in the reach of the vast majority of the watch collecting community, and rightfully credits him to carry the title of doctor of dreams.
Breitling is one of the few brands that have always taken quartz-watches seriously. This strategy definitely paid off since Breitling is one of the very few Swiss watch brands that succeeded in creating quartz-watches that have a cult-status. Moreover, Breitling did not achieve this with just one model, they did it with 3! It started with the Aerospace, continued with the Emergency and ended so far with the B-1 (that recently evolved into the Airwolf.)
Overall appearance
None of these watches hide there battery-powered nature. Two prominent displays for the digital readout are visible on the dial. On this model there are not always as easy to spot since not only they are as black as the dial, but also because Breitling has a setting in which the digital readout on both displays can be turned off.
This Breitling is almost a guarantee for many first glances. Not only from watchenthousiats but also from people with no particular interest in watches. Big, shiny and busy are the key words. These words are not necessarily compliments, but for the B-1 they are! With a diameter of 43.2mm it is 0.2mm larger then the Emergency, combine this with a case from polished steel and you certainly have an eye-catcher.
Useful slide rule bezel
The B-1 lacks the familiar bezel with riders, a famous Breitling hallmark. Instead, it has a smooth bezel engraved with numerals that run from 0 to 60 with a luminous dot at the 0/60 mark. Although simple, this is ideal if you want to countdown a certain amount of time without activating the countdown timer. Down side is that it is not very precise and since the bezel moves both ways rather smoothly, you can accidentally turn the bezel while measuring.
The bezel runs so smooth because of an ingenious gear system that is built into it. This connects the bezel with the inside chapter ring of the dial; the slide rule. The slide rule feature is also the main reason why the dial of the B-1 is so busy. The beauty about it is that it is all functional. Without explaining the slide rule in great detail, it is basically a very cleaver system that turns your Breitling into an analog calculator. With a little practice (Breitling provides an enlarged cardboard version of the slide rule complication with the watch, along with detailed instructions) you can make currency conversions, multiply and even determine the decent rate of your plane. How often will you use such a feature? Well, quite a lot. Since it is so easy to use it is a great tool for the average (non-aviator) traveler, especially when your are moving from the metric into the Imperial system and vice versa.
Slide rule practice
Apart from creating a smooth motion does the gear train also turn the chapter ring about 20% faster then the bezel itself. As a result, you can get to the desired point on the slide rule very quickly.
Features
Apart from the bezel and the slide rule did Breitling load this B-1 up with so many features that they could be best described in a list;
Perpetual calendar
Analog time display (hour change can be made audible if desired)
Digital time display (your choice if you want 12H or 24H format)
Alarm
Chronograph, capable of measuring down to 1/100th of a second, and can maximal time 99 days, 23 hours and 59,99 seconds, with the option of split times and an add up function.
Countdown timer that can maximally count down 99 days, 23 hours and 59,99 seconds
Second time zone
Alarm for second time zone
UTC universal time
Display backlighting that is compatible with night vision goggles
All together quite a list, but the beauty is that they are all very practical although you will most likely use one or two more then the others depending on your lifestyle.
The use of this wide variety of functions is very intuitive. The crown can be turned up or down to scroll through the various options and the classical chronograph buttons are used to start, stop or set the selected function. The buttons are very responsive, but at the same time not too sensitive, so accidental operations are rare.
Dial/hands
The dial of the B-1 is about a busy as a dial practically can be. This is mainly due to the slide rule, but also the numerals, Breitling logo and additional text do not really help. This can be an initial turn down for potential buyers, but rarely has almost all these things an actual function. Besides, when the digital functions are all switched off, the two displays provide an oasis of rest in a busy surrounding.
Because of the black dial on this B-1 you can only notice the displays by there slight glare, different from the rest of the dial. As soon as you switch to one of the digital functions, they become clearly visible.
Also clearly visible are the sword hands that indicate the analog hour and minute. They are very easy to distinguish on the black dial, so time can be read in a glance. The second hand is adorned with a red tip and the famous Breitling B with anchor at its base. This also set the B-1 apart from the Aerospace and Emergency, who do not have a second hand. Downside if that it is ticking clearly indicate that the B-1 is a quartz-watch. However, if that would be a turn off, you probably wouldn’t be interested in this watch in the first place.
Bright back light
Sometimes the second hand switched function. When the chronograph-function is selected, the second hand will automatically travel to the 12 o’clock position and function as analog second hand for the chronograph. When pressing the crown to activate the backlight function the second hand will stop for 20 seconds to preserve energy for as long as the backlight is on.
Case
As intimidating as the case might look due to size and thickness, as gentle it is when you finally put it around your wrist. Do not make any mistake, it still is a big and impressive sports watch, but it is certainly not “aggressive”. Its polished looks might give it a loud bark, but that isn’t followed by a bite when on the wrist. There are two reasons for this; first of all there is the bracelet that keeps the watch very stable, and therefore comfortable, around the wrist. Secondly, there is what might be the most beautiful case back on any watch. It is shaped like the turbine of a jet engine. This not only amplifies the sound of the alarm, but also positions it firmly on the wrist. Not in a bad sense by the way, because the blades of the jet engine are polished very smooth to maximize comfort.
No helium escape valve but a service hatch
The case itself is quite high but the only downside of is a small, round “service hatch” on the side of the case at 10 o’clock, that gives access to the actual gears for the bezel and slide rule chapter ring. This may allow easy maintenance but it sure isn’t making the case any prettier. Most watch enthusiasts often mistake it for a helium escape valve, but since the water resistance of this watch is only 50m/166ft that is not the case.
Sizes
0.Diameter 8 to 2: 43.2 mm
0.Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 47 mm
0.Lug width: 22 mm
0.Clasp width: 22 mm
0.Thickness: 16.5 mm
Movement
The movement Breitling uses in the B-1 is designated as caliber 68. This is based on the ETA E20.331. Since the B-1 hit the market in 1998, Breitling has “upgraded” the movement in two stages. The first stage was done in the year 2000. Although they did not change anything about the movement, from that time on the B-1 was Chronometer certified. This basically means that the B-1 may have a maximum yearly deviation of 25 seconds. Certifying the B-1 was part of the “all-Chronometer” challenge that Breitling set for itself in 1999, with as goal to be the first Swiss brand in history that has all it’s watches Chronometer certified.
Chronometer certified; a rarity for a quartz-watch
The Breitling in this review is produced in 2003 and one of the last that house caliber 68. In 2003 Breitling introduced caliber B78 in the B-1. This movement is based on the ETA E20.341. As part of the Thermoline movements made by ETA, this movement has one big advantage over its predecessor and that is that it is thermo compensated. This means that a tiny thermometer inside the movement monitors the temperature and adjusts the rate of the watch to compensate for any temperature difference that might make the watch more inaccurate. This can make the watch up to 20 times more accurate then a quartz-movement that doesn’t have this.
Although this sound very impressive, many users will never notice the difference between both calibers, although it is a step up in quality.
Bracelet
Unfortunately, there are not many innovative bracelet designs around. It is therefore quite exciting that the bracelet around the B-1 is part of that minority that actually is innovative. What Breitling did isn’t rocket science in design, but not an easy task in execution. The “cut” all the links at an angle, creating a very dynamic, yet though looking bracelet. The name “Fighter” is most certainly appropriate, especially with Breitling’s link with military aviation.
Cutting edge
The true beauty it that Breitling also cut the clasp at an angle, including the safety clasp. The clasp is nicely adorned with the Breitling-logo and founding year and although it is simple to use (just put your nail under it and flip it open) it does not say cheap. The folding part itself has also the Breitling-name written out in full in it, giving even a nice touch to the parts we don’t see as often.
The clasp also houses a simple but reliable micro-adjustment that works with a pushpin. Bigger adjustments can be made by adding or taking out a link. Breitling opted for a beautiful mechanism where the links are actually screwed down. This is the way we want to see it on a luxury watch! Solid, easy to use and it looks better too!
Screw down perfection
The bracelet consists out of three rows next to each other. Breitling gave the outer ones a nice mirror polish and the inner one a brushed finish. This ensures that the case matches the bracelet perfectly but might be not every bodies taste.
On the wrist
Putting the B-1 around the wrist almost feels like you are getting ready for take off. Its technical look and large size ensure that it is an eye catcher. The shiny case and the fact that it is so thick that most of your sleeves do not cover it, certainly add to this. At the same time it is also a very easy watch. It easily blends in with what your wearing and feels equally at home with a polo and khaki’s as with a suit and tie.
Of course, neither attires can shut the B-1’s scream for attention up. But that is not necessary because the B-1 doesn’t flaunt the fact that it is an Breitling, but more that it is a beautiful watch. Not many other “tool-watches” are capable of that. It is also a very likable watch, which most people find interesting.
The size, height and weight of the B-1 are nicely controlled by the superb bracelet. It’s the bracelet that keeps the watch firm at its place on the wrist and wears very comfortable. Nevertheless, there is also a downside; the crown that controls all the different settings may be big, it is also difficult to grasp underneath it without digging into your own skin. Also the crown guards do not help on this matter. This makes scrolling through the different functions slightly difficult and puts sometimes strange forces on the crown due to the stressed angles.
One of the most beautiful case backs around
Another disappointing thing is that the beautiful jet engine back of the B-1 is almost completely covered by skin when wearing it. This makes it that the amplified sound of alarm function etc. is rather weak. Especially in busy and/or noisy surroundings there is the risk that you actually don’t hear it. Fortunately, when placed on a night stand the B-1 makes enough noise to wake most people.
Talking about night, the B-1 has enough Luminova on the dial to bright up the room, and even when that died down you can always hit the button to activate the backlight. Breitling made the four numerals on the dial rather stylish. As stunning as the look during daytime, so confusing are they during nighttime. The thin parts of the numerals hardly glow up, making them difficult to identify at a glance. Of course they can be distinguished by there position and the hands glow enough to tell time, but it can be confusing for a second and Breitling could have done a better job.
Bright luminova with narrow numerals
Apart from these slight disappointments is the B-1 to its owner mainly an extremely practical watch. Especially when you are traveling it certainly proofs it’s value. You can easily determine if that nicely crafted watch box is indeed such a good deal by use the slide rule to convert the currency, you can set an alarm for when to wake up, but also to call home so that you don’t wake up the home front in there own time zone. You can even count down the days that you may go back home, or can leave altogether.
Phileas Fogg might have been a stylish gentleman, if he would have lived now he would have certainly traveled with a B-1 around his wrist, even though 80 days is a bit long to travel around the world in these modern times.
Packaging
Breitling delivers this B-1 in a cardboard box that is printed with an aviation theme on top of Breitling’s yellow color. The true gem is actually inside, not refereeing to the watch itself but to a very stylish box that takes us back to the early 1900’s. This box is crafted from Bakelite, one of the first plastics ever used. Although usually from a synthetic source, Breitling actually used Bakelite made from plants. A very beautiful way to store a watch although a bit of a contradiction with the high tech nature of the B-1.
Old fasionedly beautiful
Papers
Feel like going back to school? This Breitling certainly gives you a taste of it with its thick instruction booklet. This time not in all the 6912 languages spoken in the world, but actually explaining all the features of the B-1 in detail. To practice with the slide rule, Breitling even included a large cardboard dummy that works the same as the one on the watch. Of course is also the Chronometer certificate included.
Not bad to do this homework
Price
In 2003 Breitling had a EU asking price of € 2.270,-. This way its price start where most of Breitling’s time only, automatic watches left off. It also positions the B-1 in between of the Aerospace (€ 2.090,-) and the Emergency (€ 3.890,-), with it’s mechanical counterpart, the B-2, running for € 2.580,- Most of the other mechanical chronographs in Breitling’s line-up are substantially more expensive.
Competition
There are not many Swiss brands that take full advantage of what a high end, sophisticated quartz movement has to offer, but there are a few. TAG Heuer offers the Kirium Formula 1 Chronograph on a bracelet for € 2.100,-, while Bell & Ross tries to get a piece of the market with it’s Fusion at € 1.960,-.
Although definitely interesting watches, there not as innovative as the ones Ventura has in it’s collection. The V-tec Alpha doesn’t only has the same features as the Bell & Ross and TAG Heuer, but packs it into a distinct case design with an innovative scroll knob to get through all the functions. At € 1.290,- it is also significantly less expensive then the previous.
Conclusion
The section for multi-functional, Swiss made, quartz watches turned out to be quite a niche in the market. Despite some strong competitors, Breitling rules this section and the B-1 is definitely the ace in the Royal Flush. It combines a whole arsenal of practical features that are easy to use.
Combine this with a well-crafted case, innovative bracelet and one of the most beautiful case-backs in the business you have an instant winner. This does not mean that the B-1 is the perfect watch, but Breitling comes very, very close, it did not cut any corners and is well worth its price.
The only thing one can have against the B-1 is that it is a quartz-watch. However, the Breitling never made a secret out of that and carries itself proudly, knowing that if you pass up this watch because of its battery powered nature it’s your loss and not his.
Many watch collectors know the feeling; the desire to own a unique timepiece, created completely according your own ideas and wishes. Although possible, often the hefty price tag comes along with such a watch that prevents many to actually order such a watch.
A little teaser…
However, there is hope! After quite a quest it became clear that the address for bespoke sports watches can be found in no other place then….New Jersey, USA. Perhaps a surprise to many but it is actually here where a small company named Pyrolume creates custom watches that do fulfill dreams without breaking the bank!
Coming soon on TimetatioN.com is a full review on how this all takes place, including showing you up, close and personal the results.
Pelikan has made it a tradition to dedicate a series of pens to one of the vibrant metropolises we have around the world. This time Chicago had the honor. Pelikan issues these pens as a Special Edition, which means that they are available for a limited time only, but not necessary limited in production. See it as a special delicatessen you can only get for a certain time. Berlin, Stockholm, Madrid and San Francisco preceded Chicago in being part of this Special Edition, and where quite popular amongst Pelikan enthusiasts. Will the Chicago edition continue this tradition?
Barrel
What do you think about when you hear the name Chicago? Sears Tower? Deep pan pizza? Franklin Lloyd Wright? Lake Michigan? Well apparently Pelikan’s designers thought about O’Hare airport. Granted, it is one of the largest airport in the world and many people will known it as a crucial hub, but perhaps not the best inspiration for a pen.
A mix of black and grey
Are we being spoiled? The previous pens all had very vibrant colors and that is something we are not used off from a very traditional, almost conservative, brand as Pelikan. Perhaps this was the secret of the success of these special editions but the Chicago version certainly does not follow suit.
That does not mean that the Pelikan Chicago is not an attractive pen. The black and grey marbled barrel and cap give the pen a certain understatement. Closer examination reveals that some of the grey parts are actually translucent. This gives you the option to peak inside the pen, but in general it looks rather cheap.
Cap and clip
The same goes for the cap. Screwed on it is a marbled beauty but when you unscrew it and lay it on the table, it gets the effect of a translucent Dalmatian. A true pity since the rest of the details are certainly of the high standards we are used of Pelikan. The clip is shaped as the famous Pelikan head that adorns so many Pelikans. Good thing is that Pelikan choose to go for a silver-plating on these details, which blends in nicely with the colors of the barrel and cap.
Stylish logo in silver
Filling
Pelikan is one of the few brands that fits almost all it’s models with a piston filler, and for a reason. Also this pen is a good example why Pelikan does this. It is not only easy to use but it also gives the pen a nice supply of ink.
Sturdy knob for piston filler
One of the downsides of a converter is that you always have to unscrew the barrel. This is not very attractive from an aesthetic point of view, but also has the risk that the unused barrel rolls off the desk and gets damaged. Converters usually dont have a very thick knob to move the piston, so there is not much to hold on to when you are turning it to fill your pen.
A piston filler solves all of they above, in return for the minor inconvenience that cartridges are not an option any more. The one on this Pelikan is operated by the black knob at the back of the barrel, which is decorated by two silver rims. It takes some strength to turn it, but in return the plunger sucks in the ink as greedy as a bear eating honey after its winter sleep.
Nib
The nib is the only part of the pen that featured a gold tone. Although it is only partial, since the rest is platinum plated, it does look a bit out of place. A full platinum plated nib would have suited the theme better, but apparently that is a bridge too far for a special edition.
Beautiful but inappropriate in two-tone
Nevertheless is the nib itself of top quality; 18K gold, smoothly wrapped around a nicely sized feed. The nib itself is engraved with the Pelikan logo, as well as some decorations. Both are very well executed and are clearly visible.
Sizes
Nib: 20 mm
Barrel + nib: 124 mm
Cap: 62 mm
Nib + barrel with posted cap: 153 mm
Closed: 133 mm
Writing
This Pelikan is fitted with a fine-nib, and that can be tricky. Fine-nibs sometimes have the tendency to be a bit scratchy. The one on this pen is somewhat double in that. You can definitely hear it go over the paper, but at the same time, it provides you with a smooth writing experience. Definitely a pleasant surprise although the sound is not very enjoyable.
Balance barrel only
The Pelikan Chicago is based on the Pelikan 620 Souverän. This combines the benefits and finish from a big pen, with the easy-to-take-with-you mentality of a smaller pen. Even when you write with only the barrel, you get an adult writing experience. The pen is more then long enough to rest between your thumb and index finger if desired. In addition, the thickness is sufficient so you really have something to hold on to.
Balance with cap
Posting the cap does not really change all this dramatically. The cap is very light so basically it only adds to the length of the pen. Some people might prefer this, despite the small difference. The biggest benefit is that it is harder to loose or drop your cap when you use it outside the comfort of your own home.
Pelikan in full
Packaging
Being a Special Edition at Pelikan does not mean that you also get special packaging. The Chicago-edition comes in a regular black box with grey interior. Everything well made, but you would expect a little bit more.
The only thing that is different about the packaging of this pen is the booklet that is hidden underneath the cushion. A thick booklet with pictures of Chicago on the front promises a lot. Unfortunately, it contains some brief and generic information about the city, along with instructions how to fill and use the pen. The thickness is mainly thanks to all the eight different languages this manual is in.
Price
The Pelikan Chicago fountain pen sold for $330,-, which is about $60,- more then a regular Pelikan 620 Souverän. This 20% difference gets you a more unique pen, but the basics stay the same.
Competition
Although you have to trade the piston-filler for a converter, you do get a handcrafted barrel made from Italian acrylic resin when you opt for the Signum Carina instead of the Pelikan. A black and white marble is an option and with a price of $299,- you keep $30,- in your pocket.
The Krone Knowledge might have a more plain colored body, with it’s piston filler and 18K nib it might be an interesting alternative for $325,-
When you are more into lacquer, the Waterman Exception Ideal might tempt you. It offers an 18K nib and is cartridge/converter fill for $350,-
Conclusion
Pelikan’s concept is a very smart one; without compromising their conservative base collection, they create special editions that really spice things up. Combine this with the excellent quality every Pelikan product has and you have an instant winner.
Truly Chicago?
Is the Pelikan Chicago such a winner? Yes and No. Yes, because you get a unique looking pen for quite a modest price. Granted, you can get something cheaper, but then it is never a limited production model from a major brand. The nib is a pleasant surprise and there are not many fine-nibs around that write this smooth.
However, there is also a no because this pen is not perfect. The link made with Chicago is weak to say the least. Pelikan could have either bumped up their information and explained why this pen represents the Windy City (It doesn’t take much to see Al Capone with this pen in his pocket), or they could have found a different occasion to market the pen.
Translucent Dalmatian
Apart from that is there the matter of the half translucent body. This may not be a problem for everybody but it does give the pen a cheaper look and feel then it deserves. The Pelikan is certainly well made and this degrades it.
Whether you are willing to pay the premium to obtain this Special Edition over a regular 600 will be up to the individual buyer.
Special thanks to Jeffrey Mason for providing the Pelikan Chicago.
How can you completely ruin even the best looking watch? Actually quite simple; put a terrible strap on it and call it a day. It is the strap that often brings the character of watch to live. Yet there are still people who invest large amounts of money in a beautiful, well made watch, but don’t spend the time and attention when it needs a new strap.
Just like watch making, creating a high quality strap is a form of art. An old craft that almost died out, but can still be obtained from a couple of specialized companies. Most of those companies are not selling directly to the public, but often have a collection of ready-made straps that can be obtained through their dealers.
There are a lot of choices available
Although they usually provide a decent quality strap, there is another option for concerning collectors and connoisseurs who only want the best, and can be quite often obtained for little extra money.
We are talking about a custom made strap. You can see it as a tailor made suit; you can determine every detail of the strap, and match it perfectly to the color of the dial, numerals or even your car!
Even, or maybe especially, for the ladies there is a lot to choose from
One of the companies that provide this service is Manufacture Jean Rousseau. This company is located in the French town of Besançon and, how surprising, close to the Swiss border (they also have a boutique in the center of Paris). Like there name already indicates is Jean Rousseau a “manufacture”. In watch making world this means that you make every part of the product yourself. In the case of Jean Rousseau this means that this process start when they receive untreated skins from a very select group of suppliers, and ends when the customer receives its custom made strap.
Jean Rousseau’s production facility; a lot of manual labor goes into each strap
Unique about Jean Rousseau is that they also have an in-house tannery. This enables them to not only create any color the customer wants, but also gives them more control over the quality of the product. As a collector or connoisseur you might not think about these things, but the levels of formaldehyde and chrome that the skin contains has an impact on how you will be able to enjoy the strap later on. But that is not the only aspect that will have an impact on the quality of the strap. In order to create a strap that will be able to withstand everyday life while continue to look good requires a lot of testing. Jean Rousseau has it’s own laboratory that keeps a close eye on these aspects during production. To give you an idea what they test on; chemical content, tensile strength, ageing, wear and tear, staining, influence of ultra violet light, rubbing, resistance against sweat, pool water and even sea water.
Ready for the tannery
Interesting for the individual customer is that you get all the knowledge and craftsmanship that normally is only available the major Swiss brands. But what does that really mean?
To determine that we have a Louis Cartier Tank that has been recently fitted with a strap made by Jean Rousseau. Its current owner has worn the watch on a black crocodile by Cartier but was looking for something different. So Jean Rousseau made a new strap out of dark blue shark skin.
Shark skin strap on Cartier
One of the first things that draw attention is the beautiful color of the strap. Most sharkskin straps have black parts on the skin. With this strap the only thing you have are some different tones of dark blue, creating a beautiful overall look.
Another interesting thing is that the inside of the strap is also made from sharkskin! Jean Rousseau offers this as an option besides regular cow leather. At first you might be a bit hesitate to try it since shark leather has quite a raw feel to it. However, when putting it on your wrist it is surprisingly comfortable. It follows the wrist very nicely, keeps the watch well at its place and is even sweat resistance.
The Louis Cartier Tank is fitted with a Cartier folding clasp, providing an extra challenge for Jean Rousseau to deal with. The watch itself is ultra slim, so at the case side the strap can only be 2mm thick. To complicate things, one side must slim down to only 1.25 mm in order to fit through the folding clasp. The execution of this is very well done. Only when you take the watch off and lay it on the table you can see that the strap indeed slims down. When wearing it you don’t even feel the difference since the thinner part of the strap is still very sturdy.
The owner of this watch opted for a cut edge strap to stay in line with the design of the Tank. The sides are covered by a lacquer that matches the color of the strap so nicely that one almost would suspect that it is actually a turned edge (rebordered) strap.
So the catch must be at the price for all this beauty and craftsmanship? A legitimate question with a surprising answer. This custom made strap cost a little over 100 euros, shipping included, making it almost a bargain when you see what kind of craftsmanship you get for that kind of money.
Colorful options
Another surprising aspect of Jean Rousseau is that they don’t make custom made straps as a kind of side business. They take every customer very serious. If desired the wishes can be discussed with a contact from Jean Rousseau, who’s experience and advice ensures that you get what you want.
Jean Rousseau atelier in central Paris
On there website they give an indication of the types and colors leather they have. They do the same with the different strap models, but in fact they can do a whole lot more. Just send them an e-mail with your wishes and a prompt reaction will inform you about all the possibilities, and of course a quote for the price
When you prefer face-to-face contact you can also visit their atelier near Rue St. Honoré in Paris, France Click for map here
Special thanks to Dominique Legou and Jacques Bordier from Manufacture Jean Rousseau for there time, information and kind permission to use their images.
The impact a strap has on a watch is incredible. Not only plays it a big part in the overall look of the watch, it also contributes a great deal to the wearing comfort of the watch. So time to pay some extra attention to this interesting, but often forgotten part watchmaking.
Thats why TimetatioN.com introduces strap reviews. From ready-made-straps to custom made creations, at TimetatioN.com they will be put through the test to see which one will be worthy of being on your watch.
