Review

Tissot Seastar 1000

All hence on deck!

Imagine this; just before you are going to embark on a cruise you treat yourself on a nice Omega Seamaster to celebrate the occasion. All happy with yourself and your new watch you get ready to show it off at the pool. On the chair to your left a lovely lady, on the chair to your right just a chap….. with a very impressive black and beautiful watch around his wrist!! The spoiler; Tissot’s Seastar 1000.

Overall appearance

The Seastar is a bold watch. But despite it’s size it is also subtle. This might be a contradiction but Tissot simply did its homework. A smart case design, combined with refined details and a perfect blend of brushed and polished surfaces do the trick. All together the watch breathes the air of being a sophisticated sports watch; exclusive, expensive and sporty.

Features

The Tissot Seastar is clearly a divers watch, so all it’s features contribute to this concept. First there is a somewhat slope divers bezel, which you can turn unidirectional with one minute increasements. On the dial you have the usual hour-, minute- and seconds hand combined with a date complication, and to stay true to it’s nature and to insure its water resistance of 300m/1000ft the crown is screw down and firmly nested between two protective shoulders. Most remarkable is perhaps the fact that this divers watch has a glass back, so that you can admire the movement.

In case you forgot what you are wearing it is also on the clasp

Dial/hands

Just as remarkable is the fact that they choose red as a beautiful contrast with the matted black of the dial and bezel. Looks great, but wasn’t red one of the very first colors that you can’t see when you dive?? One of the first things that catch you eye when you are looking at the Seastar is the creativity that Tissot put in the hands. Normally divers watches all have more or less the same type of hands, but these are really different. The hour hand is a big red triangle, which in a smaller version can also be spotted on the second’s hand. The minute hand is more slender, but filled in with Luminova it is quite easy to spot.

Be aware though! With the first series of Seastar’s Tissot only put Luminova on the tip of the minute hand, creating a more skeletonized look. This made the minute hand difficult to spot so they filled the hand completely with Luminova on the “mark II” models.

An original face

The matted black dial was a smart move of Tissot. Not only does it eliminate some of the glare of the domed sapphire crystal, but it also makes it very easy to spot the polished hour indices. Nice touch is the one at twelve o’clock, which it slightly larger and features the Tissot T in Luminova.

Don’t expect too much of this in the dark though. The Luminova on the indices is simply too small and weak for this, but the hands glow up much better and will provide you with the ability to read the correct time in the dark.

Tissot went easy on the writing on the dial and that is as always a good thing. Nice touch is the Seastar logo where the S is shaped as a Seahorse.

Case

Most entry-level divers watches use a big, chunky case that mainly consists out of are large middle section in which the back is screwed. Tissot choose a different way, created a much slender middle section, and secured the back with six screws. Not only a good-looking solution (with a little bit of imagination you can see the tentacles of a Seastar in the back of the case) but it also creates a much slender profile for the watch. To compensate for the relatively thicker back they bended the lugs deeper so that when you put the watch flat it will rest not only on it’s back but on the ends of the lugs as well.

The fact that the watch doesn’t look as bold as it actually is, is also due to the slope bezel. Added advantage is also that the ribbed edge provides a ton of grip, making it an easy to set to bezel.

Even the crown has an original design, and tons of grip!

The porthole shaped glass back is another smart move from Tissot. Not only does it look great, it is slightly easier to maintain water resistance then a full glass back and offers more room for engravings, but it also keeps the huge spacer out of sight. What would you expect else in a 44mm case with a 25,6 mm movement in it?

Sizes

• Diameter 8 to 2: 44 mm
• Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 48 mm
• Lug width: 22 mm
• Clasp width: 22 mm
• Thickness: 16 mm
• Weight: 133 grams

Movement

The Seastar is fitted with an ETA 2824 automatic movement. The 2824 might not be as fancy as the 2892, but where do you need the latter for anyway? In a sports watch like this you want a rugged, no nonsense movement and the 2824 is just that. It also tells the time just as well as the 2892.

A decentral view on the 2824-2

The movement itself can be seen through the glass back, which is surprisingly also made from sapphire. The personalized rotor is the first thing that comes in view. When you see it spin around you also realize that the porthole shaped back is not positioned in the middle, but slightly off centre to the bottom. Geneva stripping, Tissot’s name and founding year decorate the top part of the rotor, while the weight itself features the Seastar logo and a small diver. When the rotor spins it looks like he’s swimming around in the back of the watch. Childish but fun.

The rest of the movement is undecorated, although you can still spot two blued screws that seem to lost their way. Because of the decentral glass back you can hardly see the only part of the movement (besides the rotor) that moves passionately; the balance spring. Although not extremely exciting it is always fun to see the “heart” of the watch beat.

Strap

Rubber is hot, so it is not very surprising that also Tissot went this way for the Seastar. Again, they did a good job by not simply putting any black rubber strap on the watch. They came with a more interesting design where the strap covers the complete area between the lugs. The ribbed inside ensures that the watch stays in place, even when you put it over a wetsuit, which is a serious possibility since the folding clasp incorporates a wetsuit extension. Although the looks and functionality of the clasp are good, this is where the Seastar (finally) shows its real price tag. It could also have been the clasp of a Swatch.

Cheap, sharp but functional

On the wrist

Big and thick watches have the tendency of being uncomfortable on the wrist, but Tissot found some clever ways to avoid this. The crown is for instance placed quite high upon the case, leaving more then enough room to move your wrist without the crown digging into your flesh. In addition, the rubber strap really helps keeping the watch firmly on your wrist with that hugging feeling that only rubber straps seem to have. The fact that the Seastar hardly rocks on the wrist while you are moving really sets it apart from other, large divers watches and in a distinctly positively way. It really gives the feeling that this watch is always ready for action; wither that is a scuba dive in the Great Barrier Reef or a comfortable movie night with your significant other.

Distinct hands

But unfortunately it is not all good. The domed sapphire crystal acts as such a reflector that under some angles it is impossible to read the time. The matted dial compensates a little bit for this but not enough to prevent it from being annoying at times. AR coating on the inside or a sapphire crystal that is more flat would certainly ease the pain on this matter.

Tissot’s well packed box

Packaging & Papers

Packaging is often not very intresting which watches in this pricerange. But again the Seastar surprizes. It comes in a blue box, that is secured by a cardboardwrapper that shows some of Tissot’s legendary models. The inside of the case looks a bit cheap with it’s grey-white lining, but offers a nice space for the watch and a separate part for the papers.

Cheap on they inside fortunately only goes for the box

The papers are pretty straight forward yet from a higher quality then one would expect. But the biggest surpize is yet to come! The box holds a “secret” space at the bottom where it houses not only a copy of the current catalogue, but also an almost 300 page book about Tissot’s history, complete with pictures and photo’s. They might all be in black and white, this is something you often don’t even get from watches that cost 10 times more then the Seastar.

A rare feature; a book about Tissot’s history

Price

The Tissot Seastar might be the biggest mistake the Swatch group made in the last couple of years. Apart from it’s domed sapphire crystal has the Seastar an almost flawless design, automatic ETA movement, sapphire crystal, glass back, 300 meters water-resistant, great rubber strap and a ton of personality.

So what is the mistake? The price tag! This much watch for € 475,-/$ 515,- as official retail price in 2005? A different brand name and a tripled price would even be acceptable. Tissot knew this because the watch got hardly any coverage in either ads or their own catalogues for that matter. So this great watch went almost unnoticed and ended up in the discount section of many respected jewelers that carried the brand. € 100,- to even € 150,- discounts at official retailers have been spotted.

Competition

If there is one thing that the Tissot Seastar seems to lack, it is competition. Certainly the Swiss brands have problem finding an answer to the Tissot. Oris offers it’s TT1 Meistertaucher with the same movement for € 995,-. Although you get a titanium case and 1000 meter water-resistant (the Tissot “only” offers 300 meters) it is more then double the price of the Tissot.

Mido tries it with it’s Ocean Star Sport Diver, that even beats the price of the Tissot by € 5,- However, where the Seastar can be counted as a genuine divers watch is the Mido merely a sports watch with a taste for water. The added day-function might, however be beneficial for those who are looking for a sports watch and prefer to keep their feet dry.

Marcello C. has the Nettuno 3 that sells about €100,- cheaper then the Tissot. For this you also get a metal bracelet as well as a copied Rolex Submariner design. Not really competition for the so original Seastar

Original is also the Seiko Black Monster. Although it was never formally introduced in either the States or Europe, one can pick one up from the internet for roughly €200,-. Just like the Mido is the Black Monster more a sports watch then a divers watch, but it might be a good alternative for people who don’t really care that their watch is Swiss made, but still want an original design. The Black Monster will certainly provide that for them, despite the fact that it is not as refined as the Seastar.

Seastar on winder that is tested for Watch-Winder.co.uk

Conclusion

So where does that leave the Seastar? As with many products that have a failure to launch, does also this Tissot have a high risk of becoming a cult watch. Years or maybe even one or two decades from now, some of these Seastars will resurface again and a lot of people will ask themselves; why didn’t I noticed this watch back then? And perhaps a younger crowd will respond with a “why don’t they make watches like this anymore?!”. To avoid both these situations you might want to look around and see if you can get your hands on one of the Seastars that are still out there. Because you never actually own a Seastar, you are merely taking up the responsibility to preserve this cult object for the next generation.

© Copyright TimetatioN 2010

All rights reserved

Cartier is one of the few brands that pampers it’s heritage and history a lot;
actually more than any other brand.
Naturally since Cartier is one of the few companies that has an incredible rich history and
has always used it cleverly.
Instead of constantly inventing and introducing new designs, the brand chooses to use their
famous shapes and styles from the past and alter them slightly, to fit the different taste and
style of today.
Completely new designs are added to the mens catalogue, but with great care
and only once in a while.
Besides the ladies and quartz models, that are not mentioned here,
the Pasha, Roadster, Rotonde, Ballon bleu and the latest addition, Calibre de Cartier
are the only really new design (mechanical) examples that appeared since the last 25 years.

An important and early example of fine watchmaking is the ‘Tortue Mono Poussoir’
that was released in 1928.

In the thirties Cartier worked very close with Jaeger (le Coultre) and
Cartier also obtained more complicated movements from the European Watch & Clock
Company, that supplied calibers for the different Cartier models like Tortue,
Tortue Mono Poussoir, Tank Cintrée, Tank a Guichets and probably a few more.
Not many of these Tortues have been produced and when a vintage Tortue MP,
occasionally appears at auctions it fetches a handsome price.
Unique of a Mono Poussoir or Single Pusher movement, is of course the fact, that all functions
of the chronograph are operated through that single crown.
Not only a clever invention, but it also gives the whole look of the watch a less busy,
less sporty and more dressy appearance, which makes it the first Chronograph watch
that really fits a Brooks Brothers suit.

The calibre 045MC has also the special feature of a clutch system with a swivel pin.
Which in fact means that the transmission of the movement of the second wheel of the base movement
to the chronograph’s central wheel is effected through a double swivel pin.
The advantage of this clutch is that it suppresses the skip of he hand at the beginning of a translation
movement, which is found with the mechanisms of chronographs with a lateral clutch.

Collectors were happily surprised when Cartier presented the ‘Collection Privée Cartier Paris’
in April 1999, to find a re-release of that famous Tortue MP, in yellow gold.

Quite a bit larger and thicker than the original model, to make it more masculine
and to fit the new Swiss movement.
But with a case size of 45×35 mm, still not a really large watch.
The handwound movement, calibre 045MC, is a THA ebauche.
THA is a company that was formed by ‘Halter, Journe & Flageollet’ so this calibre is their work.
Only the dial of this first yellow gold model comes só close to the early pieces.
Around the same time, the watch was also released in white gold version, with a modern dial,
that had just the number 12 in romans and really small 5 minute markers,
which gave the watch a very different and contemporary look, from the yellow gold version.

The trend and demand for larger watches moved on and the Tortue MP became larger.
The newer version came in pink gold, with a case size of 38×48mm and had a different design dial,
although we really talk about details here, it’s still pretty different from the early piece.
Both sizes had the same Calibre 045MC.

The Tank Mono Poussoir is a different beast and was an unexpected surprise,
when it was launched in 2007.

It was in fact the second model, with a Mono Poussoir movement.
With it’s pretty large, pink gold case of 34×43mm, the Calibre 045 and released in a
limited edition of only 100 pieces, it was pure candy for collectors.

A very interesting aspect of this watch is the fact, that it is indeed a historical piece
where still very little is known about.
This Tank was originally released in 1935, something I only learned recently.
As far as I know the model has not been auctioned, at least not since the last 15 years
and surprisingly enough the only picture of the historic model, that I know of,
can be found in the book ‘Le Temp de Cartier’ by Jader Barracca/ Giampierro Negretti / Franco Nencini.

Pictured here on the ‘Le Temp de Cartier’ book, together with the 2007 version;

Also quite remarkable is the fact that the Tank MP is not mentioned in the important book
‘The Tank Watch’ by Franco Cologni, that was released nine years later than
‘Le Temp de Cartier’.

The pink gold version hardly reached the Boutiques and was sold out almost instantly In 2007.
and sold in fact so fast that some Boutiques did not even know of it’s existence.
It was followed up in 2008, by a white gold version, that took a bit longer to sell out completely.
Same watch, same movement and again released in a limited edition of 100 pieces.
These editions are really small, to supply a world with over 200 Boutiques.

These Mono Pushers are excellent examples of good re-releasing of models from the past.
Cartier has created so many timeless designs in their rich past, that I am sure we will see more
of them in the future, equipped with the modern technology of today.
While the company was famous for their case and dial design in the past,
(movements were not an issue at all, at that time),
the company has changed it’s vision and concentrates more on in house calibre’s
for an important part of it’s collection.

GEO

Review

Bertolucci Uomo

Elegance with a bite

Bertolucci; the name sounds as elegant as the watches are. But then again what would you expect when an Italian starts making watches in the heart of the Swiss watch industry at Neuchatel, Switzerland? However, where elegance is a valued ingredient for female watches, it is often less appreciated by men in their own watches. So how do you make an elegant watch that still appeals to the majority of the male sex? Quite simple; create a new model and name it Uomo.

Overall appearance

A first look shows there is no doubt about it; this is a man’s watch. The lines are firm and strong, but at the same time leave no doubt about the fact that this is a Bertolucci. Actually, it is surprising to see how many of the design details one can also find in the “Vir” and “Pulchra” are still present in the Uomo. By making sharper edges and “flatten” some details, the watch gained a much stronger and masculine look.

Uomo in winder that is tested for Watch-Winder.co.uk

Feature

Although the Uomo was also available as a chronograph is this the time-only model. Bertolucci went all the way to make this not only practical, but also to hold up its end in the high-end watch scene. As a movement they selected ETA’s 2892-2, so performance in that area is almost guaranteed. To point this out even more is the Uomo also Chronometer certified. Apart from this, the movement also features apart from the time a central seconds hand and date at 3 o’ clock.

Dial/hands

The hands are very straightforward in their design but a great match with the stick markers. Because of the elaborate case and the ribbed markers at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, you don’t really realize that they look a lot like the hands and markers Rolex uses on their Datejust-models. Normally that would not be a good thing, but since they match the overall design of the Uomo so well it can more be seen as a pro then a con.

Beauty in blue

It are actually the ribbed markers a 6, 9 and 12 o’clock that give the face of the watch that something special. They make a good transition from the relatively soft lines of the case, to the straight lines of the stick makers and hands.

Yet, the main attraction of the face of the Uomo is without a doubt the blue dial. This dial benefits greatly from the fact that Bertolucci applied both the in- and the outside of the sapphire crystal with anti reflective coating. This combined with the playing of the light over dial creates the most interesting colors, varying from blue-black to different tones of Royal and Azure blue. Quite stunning and it does change the look of the whole watch.

Case

Bracelets and cases have always been the center of Bertolucci’s attention and with the Uomo this is no different. The case has the typical horns at 12 and 6 o’clock that go from the bracelet over to the bezel, although with the Uomo they are more flattened then with other Bertolucci models. Closer examination under magnification actually reveals that the horns are not attached to the bezel, but actually part of the case itself. This indicates the very strict parameters under which production takes place.

Perfection can be found in close details

Despite a definitely more masculine look is the case still very well rounded, with only the lugs shaped down a little bit sharper. The bezel has been kept quite wide and the case itself immediately starts to curve down to the back of the watch, masking some of the height. The back itself is not flat but has a slight orb so it lays comfortable but sturdy on the wrist. Four screws keep the back in place.

Mirror back

Something that is also screwed down is the crown. The design of it makes it quite easy to grab and hold on to despite the fact that it is not the biggest. Although placed slightly inside the case, it does not have really shoulders to protect it. However, since the Uomo has not been created as a hard-core sports watch, there is also not really a need for.

Making things functional; the screw down crown

Sizes

0.Diameter 8 to 2:                                 38 mm

0.Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 40.5 mm

0.Lug width:                                           19 mm

0.Clasp width:                                        18 mm

0.Thickness:                                           12 mm

0. Weight:                                                128 grams/4.4 oz bracelet included

Movement

What can be said about the ETA 2892-2 that has not already been said? With watches in this price range it seems to be the preferred choice and why not? With it’s diameter of 25,6 mm it can be fitted in a wide variety of case sizes and can accommodate both full size models as well as mid-size of even ladies models from the same watch. It is a sturdy runner, can take a beating and has a reputation of being precise even in the long run. The fact that this movement also comes often with a Chronometer certificate (apart from Bertolucci, also Breitling and Omega offer this movement with Chronometer certification in their watches.) can be used as an indication for that.

The owner also benefits from a 42 hour power reserve, the date function and the seconds stop when you pull the crown completely, for on the second synchronization with another time source. Also the 28,800 beats per hour make the second hand run nice and smoothly over the dial. So definitely no complains in the movement department for this Uomo.

Bracelet

Bertolucci went for a bracelet style that one can almost call integrated. The watch is also available with a strap, but since it has a middle section between the lugs this is not a strap from which you can pick up a replacement at your favorite strap seller. On the other side, why would you buy this watch on a strap when the bracelet is such a work of art?

Securing the bracelet

It blends perfectly in with the design of the case and despite a more solid look, it has kept the silky smooth links that Bertolucci is known for! It is actually quite amazing how steel can feel so soft and smooth. The links are connected to each other by a smaller centerpiece, which feels sturdier then it looks. It makes the strap quite supply, following the wrist of its owner carefully. The links that are removable to size the bracelet are secured by two screws that fall nicely within the link.

A great design; Uomo’s clasp

Bertolucci does not supply the watch with half links, but fortunately had the clasp itself enough adjustment holes for the pushpin to compensate for that. Despite the fact that the clasp is solid, smart design make it blend in perfectly with the rest of the bracelet. A small button o the side opens the otherwise firmly closed clasp.

On the wrist

Picking up the Uomo, and you are in for a surprise! Despite it’s small diameter it weighs as much as a Breitling B-1 with bracelet! Yet, this is all forgotten once the Uomo finds its place on your wrist. The weight is evenly distributed around the bracelet and the watch itself does not sit high on your wrist (thanks to some smartly placed lugs). The 38mm model as featured in this review is the mid-size model, with a 42mm model as larger option. However not only is the 38mm is nice and comfortable size to wear, it also allows you to see part of the fantastic bracelet when you check the time.

Ensuring a perfect fit

One part about the bracelet that is a little bit less fantastic is the inside of the clasp. It is quite sharp and when you wear the Uomo a bit loose around your wrist this will irritate the skin. Especially when everything else is so rounded and polished to perfection this really stands out in a negative way.

AR-coating and a blue Bertolucci dial; the perfect combination

That this Uomo is an eye catches is not only because of its design, but even more because this one is fully polished and shines like a mirror. Originally the Uomo comes brushed, with only the bezel, horns and inner links of the bracelet polished, but on special order Bertolucci also delivered the watch in a fully polished version. This might be exclusive but it is also a magnet for scratches because you see everything on it.

Packaging

No standard boxes for Bertolucci! After you open the outer box, made from black cardboard that is covered with the Bertolucci B, you reveal an oval shaped box made from black faux leather. The cream inside offers a nice pillow for your Uomo to rest on, and below the pillow enough room to store your watch documents.

Not square; Bertolucci’s look on a watchbox

Papers

All the papers are housed in a nice, grey sleeve and offer you a nice, complete package. Not only does it inform you about how to operate your watch in five different languages and tells you where the worldwide service centers are, it also features a certificate of origin and warranty. Complete surprise is that Bertolucci even includes a small version of the Chronometer certificate! Talking about a pleasant surprise…

Of all the paperwork, this is the best!

Price

In 2002 the price for this Bertolucci Uomo was € 2.470,-. For this price you had the choice between either the 38mm or the 42mm model, since they both had the same price. Bertolucci also offered a quartz version of the Uomo, that sold without Chronometer certificate for € 2.218,-.

Competition

When you think of a blue dialed watch, on of the first models that often springs to mind is the Omega Seamaster Professional, which also houses the same movement as the Uomo. Despite some additional features as a divers bezel and a helium escape valve it is significantly cheaper then the Uomo with a price of € 1.570,- in 2002.

But for the potential Uomo buyer this Omega might be a bit too sporty! Another brand that offers watches on the dividing line of dress and sport is Ebel. It is 1911 Senior sold in 2002 for € 2.150,- in the 38mm version and was powered by an automatic caliber based on the Lemania 8810.

Conclusion

The soft links of the bracelets of the Vir and Pulchra models that resembled pebbles in a stream, have evolved into rocks for the Uomo. Still no hard rock, since Bertolucci did not compromise on wearing comfort, but the more masculine lines must have appealed to a broader group of potential customers.

High quality in an unobvious choice

The Uomo is not a watch that gives you a lot of room to complain. The execution is flawless and perfect almost down to the last detail. Only the inside of the clasp could be a bit smoother to increase wearing comfort even more, but overall this Bertolucci is definitely running ahead of the pack. Taken in mind the price they also had no other option then to justify this with quality.

All together is the Uomo a pleasant watch that not only combines sportiness with flair, but also blends in with most social activities. A great all-rounder for the man who wants to do things just a little bit different.

© Copyright TimetatioN 2009

All rights reserved

Special straps; curse or virtue?

A strap makes the watch. It adds character and can literary change the whole look of a watch around. Take for example Panerai, who’s watches are all very close together in style and design, yet at the same time can look totally different depending which strap you put on the watch. This was certainly one of the strengths of this brand, and undoubtfull contributed to its success. Ironically, many of those straps came from third parties, which sometimes even completely specialized in making straps for Panerai’s. A smart tactic, because despite the fact that Panerai probably let some money go by on the sale of straps, the increasing popularity of their watches probably made that up for that in ten fold.

A lot of choice for Panerai fan’s

Unfortunately is this not the approach most watch manufacturers choose. More often then not they charge high prices for straps, but sometimes it seems that all reason goes out the door. In 2009 Breitling sold relatively simple plain leather straps for € 120,-. Well known strap manufacturers like Rios and DiModell sold a similar quality strap for about one quarter of the price Breitling asks.

That brands charge more for a strap then a third party supplier is of course logical. Most watch brands do not make the straps themselves, so they have a supplier that makes it for them. In addition, their retailers need to make money on the sale of a strap; so more chains lead to a higher price.

Straps are a nice and relatively steady source of income for the brands and their retailers. Even if a customer does not buy a new watch, sooner or later he will need to replace the strap. It seems that there is a current trend in which watch manufacturers make sure that the only place where a customer can buy a strap that fit’s his precious watch is the official retailer.

Perfect fit…for a price

Two brands know this strategy already longer; Ebel and Bertolucci. Both brands favored a system in which the straps are secured by two screws coming from underneath the case. This does indeed ensures a beautiful and almost seamless fit of the strap, but replacement straps are hard to come by. Official dealers have them, but you pay a high price for a very limited selection of colors and types of leather. In case of Bertolucci the added problem is that it’s retailer coverage has been cut back dramatically in the last couple of years, leaving proud owners in some countries with no dealers to turn to for something as simple yet crucial as a new strap.

Watch horror; Need new strap yet no dealer to supply it

Sometimes demand solves the problem. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore is another watch that asks a very specific type of strap. At first only Audermars Piguet itself was able to provide you with one, but thanks to the enormous success of this model range, you now also see third party suppliers taking the plunge and invest in the development and tools to make such straps.

With the Royal Oak Offshore this is also possible because the strap itself does not require any special fittings or parts, it is attached to the case by a tube that goes through the holes of the strap. The in 2009 introduced IWC Aquatimer 2000 uses a system in which you secure the strap by a kind of lever that you push in the case. Very smooth, very user-friendly, but again a replacement strap can only come from IWC.

User friendly with a watchlife commitment to IWC

Another current trend are technically advanced straps that are part of the architecture of the watch. Linde Werdelin as well as Concord make watches with beautifully “integrated” straps. Great to see and often innovative, but also so advanced that a third party supplier will probably think twice before it starts to make straps that will fit.

Strap architecture

An additional aspect that might play a role how recognizable the overall look of the watch is. When a specific watch can only be fitted with a limited type of straps, you sell a lot of more or less similar watches, creating a very recognizable look. This is attractive for the brand itself, which can market a clear and constant look, but also for (potential) owners who enjoy a watch that can easier be identified by other people.  Hublot is a brand that already knew this from day one. Just like with the early Ford’s you could order any color as long as it was black…and rubber for that matter.

In the end it is still the consumer that decides wither the choice from brand and model is enough to show his individual taste, and pays the price that comes with it, or that a strap is something that should be able to change with the seasons, or simply with that great new shirt your tailor just delivered.

© Copyright TimetatioN 2009

All rights reserved

2009 was the year that TimetatioN.com lifted off, it was a year of special reviews and interesting watches and pens. For 2010 you can expect more special reports on a wide variety of watch and pen related topics, more opinion pieces and of course more reviews of watches and pens! Thanks for your support in 2009!

Have a great Christmas with your friends and family and a happy, healthy New Year!

Martin Green

Review

Rosewood watchcase

For many people, wither you are a collector or connoisseur, the first good watch will soon get company of the second, then the third and so on. This sure is a pleasant luxury, but it also causes some problems. One of those problems is how to store them. Some people keep them in their original boxes, others simply in a drawer. In this review we look at a more elegant solution.

Overall appearance

The watchcase is certainly an eye-catcher, although in a very subtle way. The elegant lines and warm colors of the rosewood veneer are highlighted by the light rim around the top part of the case. The key with tassel gives it a sense of importance. The size of the case is nice, big enough to store a decent amount of watches, yet still small enough to store easily.

Yes, this is veneer!

The veneer used on this case is of a high quality. You really have to look very closely to realize that it is a veneer. The luxurious look of the veneer is even increased by a nice and shiny coat of polish, giving the box a velvety matt shine.

The key does not have much too it. It is a very simply one, more for show then for practical use. However, it is possible to lock the case and the lock closes the case firmly. This is quite a surprise, and will be enough to prevent most kids to take daddy’s or mommy’s watch for a ride. More serious predators like burglars will find no match in the lock.

Behind lock & key

The hinges are very nicely made and firmly screwed in the case. Although there finish reveals that they are plated, the construction is much better then one would expect with a case at this price level. More important, they work smoothly and look great in combination with the beige interior and the rosewood veneer.

A hinge you can trust

Storage

The watchcase is made to store eight watches, each in an individual compartment with a firm yet soft pillow. The watches have plenty of room, so even larger watches in the 44mm range can be stored easily and safely. Every part of the inside of the case that a watch can even remotely come in contact with is lined with a soft beige lining. The lining in the lid is even filled so that it gently pushes the larger watches on their place without damaging them.

Enough soft space inside

Sizes

• Lenght:                                                 255 mm
• Depth:                                                   210 mm
• Height:                                                   80 mm
• Single compartment length:             51 mm
• Single compartment depth:              83 mm
• Single compartment height:             42 mm

Daily use

In daily use this watchcase really proves its value. Eight watches give a nice selection to match most activities and/or clothes. Also the size proofs to be very practical. It can easily find a place in the bedroom, dressing room, walk-in closet or safe. The lock proved to be too much of a hassle to use, and since the top is heavy enough to ensure a perfect fit when closed, there is not really a need.

Enough to keep the kids out of the box

The rounded corners of the case made it easy to get a comfortable grip on the top, which can literary be opened with one finger. This is also thanks to the anti-slip fabric on the bottom of the case, which keeps it firmly grounded. The hinges where the best surprise of all, when the top is completely opened you have to shake the case really hard before it falls down. Therefore, it is almost impossible for the top to fall and damage one of your watches when you want to take it out.

Quite cushiony; perfect for any watch

The pillows are big enough to keep the watches nicely in place, yet at the same time they are also small enough to allow most metal bracelets to be closed. They do not fill the compartment complete so there is some room for the watch to more. This may sound not ideal, but in practice it works fine especially since everything is lined with a very soft fabric. Big advantage is that there is lots of room in every compartment, so even the big watches can be placed next to each other without a problem.

Even enough room for big ones!

Packaging

How do you pack a box? Exactly, in a larger box. This rosewood watchcase was wrapped in packaging material and came in a nice white cardboard box. A very practical solution and a great way to protect damage during transit, but also to store the watchcase when not in use.

Price

Most impressive part of this watchcase is perhaps its price. For 32.99 Pound Sterling, this might not be the cheapest watchcase, but it will be most certainly a challenge to find this quality and look for that amount.

Competition

Watchcase can be found at many price-levels, from extremely cheap plastic, ones to hand carved specimens made from the finest woods or sometimes even precious metals. The competition is almost endless, with also quite a difference in quality.

Conclusion

This watchcase is a pleasant surprise. Based on its price the expectations are low, but the delivered quality is quite high. It is first and foremost a very practical watchcase, with thought thru details that you will benefit from daily. Apart from that, it is also a very beautiful case, taking the common watchcase to the next level. Sure, it is veneer but of a very high quality and with a great look, and at this price range you will safe enough to already have a nice start for the next watch!

Special thanks for Nick Bradshaw of Watch-Winder.co.uk for providing the case for this review.

© Copyright TimetatioN 2009

All rights reserved

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Martin Green

Review

PyroLume’s Copperhead & Son of Movement

Doctor of Dreams

Many watch enthusiasts will know the feeling; the desire to own a one of a kind watch, tailored to your own ideas and taste. Making this desire a reality is quite a challenge, with as biggest hurdle; money. There are various companies that can and will cater to your need for a custom made watch, but their prices are usually high and most watch enthusiasts will not be able to spend this amount of money on a watch. But there is hope….all you need is a visit to the doctor!

This may sound strange, but your ticket to an affordable, custom-made watch can actually be obtained from a doctor, or to be more specific, an anesthesiologist. Confused? Well, to make it even more confusing; these watches come from New Jersey, USA. This is the home of Pejman Foroush, practicing anesthesiologist and watchmaker.

While in his work he guides patients safely through an operation, in his spare time he creates dreams for watch collectors under the name of “PyroLume”. So, does that make him yet another amateur that tinkers on watches in his attic? Definitely not. Although well aware of his current limitations, he has two main specialties that set him apart from the rest.

True PyroLume dials

First there is his passion for dials. As no other does Pejman realize that the dial is the face of the watch, and one of the most powerful parts to give it its identity. This believe made him experiment with a wide variety of materials ranging from carbon fiber to more exotic choices like mother-of-pearl and meteorite. All these dials come with an extraordinary design for the numerals and markers, creating the unique PyroLume look.

PyroLume sports watch with Mother of Pearl dial

Secondly, there is his expertise in luminous compounds, hence the name PyroLume. To compliment his bold dial designs Pejman created his own line of luminous compounds. He does this by mixing these Swiss made compounds with dye, solvents and binders according to his own recipes. The result is not only a wide variety of colors (including pitch black!) but also luminous hands and markers that do provide you with a glow that literal last all night long!

For the rest he relies on various suppliers to provide him with parts that he cannot make himself. This has as great advantage that the overall quality is very good. The down side might be that it limit your options a bit, but you do get an almost unbeatable price for that in return and still own a watch tailored to your own tastes and wishes.

Of course this all may sound like the good doctor has a found a nice recipe, but is it really the cure for that burning desire for a high quality, custom-made watch? Lets put two examples to the test.

First up is a watch that got the name “Copperhead”. The name is a reference not only to the snake, but can also be taken quite literal; the dial is actually made of copper.

Overall appearance

This copper dial is also the main attraction of this watch, yet it is not the only one. Also the large, flieger-styled case commands attention. The two combined give a very powerful combination. They surprisingly fit the theme together, although that was also the aim; to create a flieger watch with a twist, or two, because with the Copperhead we are not only breaking with the traditional black dial, but also gave a  PyroLume twist on the traditional dial lay-out, in particular the triangle that marks 12 o’clock.

Copperhead in full

Feature

The features of the Copperhead are very trimmed down. Apart from the dial and case, the watch only has an hour and minute hand. This to accomplish a clean-cut dial, with nothing distracting. There is one other feature, but that one can be found at the back of the watch in the form of a glass back, which provides an unobstructed view of the watch movement.

Dial/hands

The dial of the Copperhead is created from a solid piece of copper, where the markers are cut out by a CNC machine. The markers are filled inwith  custom made luminous compounds, although they appear to be all the same color in daylight, at night the hour markers and hands turn green, while the rest and the two dots above the 12 o’clock triangle turn blue. They do this in such an intense way that it is quite a spectacular sight that not many other watches offer.

Raw dial

The magnificent dial design is created by engine turning. Interesting about the method that Pejman used to create this dial, is that there is no physical contact between the polisher and the dial. The whole dial is covered in a mineral oil that has a fine abrasive material suspended in it. A simple viscous coupling spins this substance against the dial creating the desired effect. In this case the off set was determined in such a way that the rounds would fall over each other in such a way that it looks like the scales of reptile, another reference to it’s name.

Close up: the Copperhead dial

Despite the unconventional dial are the hands shaped in classic, flieger-style. Their segmented shape works well in combination with the case, and they are very easy to spot on the copper dial. They also provide enough room for quite a glow, with PyroLume’s luminous compound.

Case

The stainless case is made in Germany and features many interesting details. First of all it is completely brushed, giving the watch a nice satin look that makes the dial pop even more. Secondly, there is this big, diamond shaped crown that measures a whopping 5 mm, making it very distinct.

A very nice way to house a movement

Ironically, the case itself is not even that large. With a diameter of 42 mm, it is one of the smaller cases to hold the 36.6 mm Unitas movement. This movement can be admired in full through the mineral glass back.

Apart from the crown, also other features add to the Flieger-style feeling of this watch. One is the coin edge bezel that gives the watch a distinct look, the other one are the screws that are used to secure the strap. They are fully functional, so no pushpin is hidden between the lugs.

Sizes

0.Diameter 8 to 2:                                 42 mm

0.Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 47 mm

0.Lug width:                                           22 mm

0.Buckle width:                                      20 mm

0.Thickness:                                           11 mm

Movement

No corners where cut when it came to the movement. Although a Unitas 6497 is not a very unlikely choice for a flieger-styled watch like the Copperhead, this particular Unitas movement was actually supplied by Soprod. This name might ring a bell, most likely in reference with Panerai. It was Soprod that supplied Panerai with customized Unitas-movements for several of its models.

A perfect fit; the Unitas 6497

The movement features Geneva striping and blued screws, creating a very appealing sight especially since the blue screws give a dynamic contrast with the red of the 5 jewels at are visible from the back of the movement.

Although the movement has the option of adding a second’s hand, the Copperhead has not one. This is done to keep the dial as clean as possible, and to get the maximum effect of the engine turned copper. However this didn’t held Pejamn back to regulate the Copperhead to a daily deviation of only 1 second a day, and makes the watch a very reliable companion.

Strap

The strap is custom made for this watch by Inspire Workshop. When going through such trouble to have a watch custom made, it does not make sense to settle for a regular strap.

The strap itself is quite a personality, but with a lug width of 22 mm this is almost unavoidable. Despite the elegant look of the dial did the strap mainly had as its purpose to reinforce the vintage look of the watch. A horn back crocodile strap certainly gets that done, and also adds a exotic sense to the watch.

Strap & dial; an interesting match

The light brown color of the strap softens its look a little bit, so that it is a nice match with the dial color. Off white stitching was chosen to complement the color of the markers.

On the wrist

That the Copperhead is a personality in its own right certainly becomes clear on the wrist. Despite its relatively modest diameter of 42 mm it does wear quite larger. This is mainly created by the large dial, but also by the prominent lugs and large crown. Where the lugs definitely add to the wearing comfort of the Copperhead, it is the crown that takes some of this away. Due to its size it is rubbing against the wrist when moving, causing occasional discomfort.

On the other hand is the crown a delight to use. Winding the movement is not only butter smooth, but also very easy since you actually have something to hold on to. This makes also the setting of the watch an easy task.

The black hands provide a nice contrast with the dial, making reading the time something that can be done in a glance, and thanks to the rich luminous compound it doesn’t matter whether it’s day or night. The makers also play a big part in this. With its easy detectible 12 o’clock marker, your brain only needs an instance to decipher the correct time.

A true PyroLume

But the real star is of course the dial itself. Always playing with the light, never looking the same; it is a first class eye catcher. The earthly tone of the copper gives the dial a rich, warm color that is even enhanced by the use of AR-coating on the sapphire glass. People are instantly drawn by the scale design of the engine turned dial. Its almost like it lures people to look at it. Definitely be ready to expect a lot of glances and comments at your watch, when wearing a watch like this. Also be prepared to spend a great deal of time looking at the dial yourself, since it is not only luring other people to look at it…..

The second watch is called Son of Movement. This in reference to a painting by Rene Magritte, the surrealistic, Belgium painter that adorns this watch in a special, and unexpected way.

Overall appearance

Next to the Copperhead is the Son of Movement much bolder. Its industrialist design can hardly be called elegant, yet everything seems to serve a purpose. At the same time this gives the watch a more modern look, also because of the black dial combined with the black strap. It may all look a bit minimalistic at the first glance, but the Son of Movement houses a couple of “detailed surprises”.

A bold statement yet with many subtle details

Feature

The watch has little features that come into view right away. It brings the watch back to its essence. 3 hands to tell time, that’s it. Again this was done to create a clean and balanced dial, that speaks its power by “less is more”. It’s main feature can once again be found at the back, for the discretion of its owner to see and enjoy, although this time it is not only the movement that stands out..

Dial/hands

The dial looks solid black from a distance but at close range it reveals its true nature. It is actually carbon fiber, giving the dial a beautiful wave pattern in monochrome colors. This really gives the dial more depth and personality, then when it was just a plain black dial.

Carbon dial before installation in the case

Personality is also something given to this watch by the impressive dial design. The minute markers go round the dial like a fan, while four bold numerals identify the hours. A careful observer can even see a slight difference in color between the blue and green luminous compound, making it even easier to tell time. Although the movement supports a date-function, this was not incorporated in the dial to maintain balance and integrity.

Monochrome with bright blue steel

The hands are quite slender, obstructing as little of the dial as possible, yet at the same time clearly indicating the time. They are blued, which give a special effect on the  black carbon fiber dial. Again this is something that takes a second look to realize, except when the light hits them at the right angle and they turn bright blue.

The idea for blued hands on a black dial came actually from a Panerai. The limited edition PAM 172 already did this in 2003. The striking effect it had on me was the inspiration to also do this on the Son of Movement.

Case

The case is quite exceptional. It exists out of 3 pieces that are bolted together by four screws on the corners. An interesting dynamic is formed by the fact that the back- and front plate not only cover the lugs almost completely, but also stick out a bit on the side. This creates a beautiful architecture adds a nice dose of charisma.

The parts that make up the case

Since the lugs are a bit tucked away under the watch, it gives the impression that the strap seamlessly goes over into the case. Fortunately it does not limit the straps movements as some 1970’s watches did where the strap went almost into the case. For the rest the lugs are pretty straight forward, almost blunt in their design. A pushpin holds the strap in place.

Bold yet beautiful

The crown is rather small compared to the case, but that has the additional benefit that it does not interfere greatly with the design of the case. It is crafted in the same style and provides more then enough grip to easily set and wind the watch.

A crown for interesting architecture

A slope ring divides the case from the sapphire crystal that adorns the front of the watch. A smart move, because it is a very simple yet elegant way of adding more depth into the case design.

Sizes

0.Diameter 8 to 2:                                 47 mm

0.Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 46 mm

0.Lug width:                                           22 mm

0.Buckle width:                                      20 mm

0.Thickness:                                           14 mm

Movement

Where the Copperhead relied on a manual wind movement does the Son of Movement use an automatic movement. Again Swiss quality was preferred in the form of the reliable ETA 2824-2. A very “raw” version was chosen, so a minimum in decorations to match the design of the rest of the watch. This workhorse movement is a perfect fit for this bold watch.

Source of inspiration; Magritte’s Son of Man

Don’t take that “fit” too literal because with a diameter of 25.6 mm it can almost swim in the case of the Son of Movement, and that opens up some other options. Another specialty of PyroLume are engravings, more often then not of an impressive nature. The large size of the Son of Movement provides more then enough space to do this. But what if we take the engraving to the next level and let it interact with the movement?

CNC engraving by PyroLume

To do this we turned to the work of Belgium painter Rene Magritte (1898 – 1967), whose surrealistic work include a painting he made in 1964 of himself wearing a suit and a bowler hat. In front of the face is a distinct, hovering, green apple that hides most of the facial features. Magritte called this painting “Le Fils de l’Homme” or in English; “Son of Man”.

Original design for caseback

This painting became the inspiration for the back of the watch.  Because of the relatively small diameter of the movement, a glass back was created. Around this the outline of a man in a suit with a bowler hat was expertly engraved. In this case it is not an apple that makes the face invisible, but the watch movement. To keep the movement into place a custom, stainless steel movement holder was crafted. In reference to the Magritte painting, the watch got the name “Son of Movement”, which is also engraved on the back.

Stainless steel movement holder to make sure that the ETA 2824-2 doesn’t go anywhere

Apart from these engravings does the Son of Movement also feature the TimetatioN-logo. This logo has been around for quite some years, but only recently got worldwide recognition with the launch of TimetatioN.com. This is the first time it is actually used on a watch.

CAD drawing towards final case back design

Also the fact that this watch is a “piece unique” is visible at the back, where it shows that this watch is No.1 in a limited edition of 1. Last but most certainly not least is also the country of birth of the Son of Movement engraved in the case back.

Son of Movement’s engraved back

Strap

Also the strap for Son of Movement is custom made by Inspire Workshop. Although it is again a horn back crocodile, the black color camouflages this quite a bit. Nevertheless has the strap quite a presence. Again, a 22mm wide strap can hardly help this.

The horn back crocodile has one unexpected advantage; although it is in good harmony with the rest of the watch, it kind of tones down the industrial look of the watch, making it easier to blend in with different type of clothing. Blending in is of course a bit of an overstatement taken the size of the watch.

Interesting dynamics; black & blue, natural & industrial

To complement the hands, the strap was fitted with dark blue stitching. For the casual eye this will not stand out, but overall is makes for a more complete balance between watch and strap.

On the wrist

The Son of Movement is surprisingly comfortable to wear. The back is completely flat and rests nicely against the wrist. It’s weight or size does not bother one little bit. It is almost like the watch becomes weightless as soon as it is strapped on. Of course, it has a substantial presence on the wrist, but this is mainly due to the looks of the watch.

Details make the watch; deep engravings on the back

Again, the PyroLume dial design proofs it is value in day to day life. Under almost every circumstance it is easy to read the time at a glance. Even when it has not been exposed too much light it still radiates enough to tell time, even in tricky circumstances like for example twilight.

Easy to read from dusk till dawn

One other thing that stands really out about this watch is the fact that it is not intimidating. Big watches often have the tendency to look overpowering, while the Son of Movement seems more soften down on the wrist. Two aspects play a main part in this. First there are the slope edges on the top plate of the case. They reflect the light in such a way that the silhouette of the watch is nicely outlined and give it a soft, rounded look. Secondly it is again the smart dial design that, together with the case, divide the watch in segments that are very pleasing for the eye. This all brings an almost unmatched balance in the overall design of the watch.

Price

Custom watches have custom prices, yet the average price PyroLume charges for one of it’s custom watches often does not even get you a seat at the table of one of the Swiss entry level brands. Of course individual choices can run up the price, but not merely as fast as one would think. PyroLume’s starting point is about $350,-, with an average for $650,- for its more elaborate pieces with Swiss mechanical movements.

Competition

Custom made watches at this price level are rare, especially those who can actually provide you with Swiss movements, engravings and custom materials for dials. Even established Swiss brands have difficulty providing watches for this price without the customization.

Two of a kind, yet each with a unique character

Conclusion

Is watch making back in the USA? After RGM and Kobold now PyroLume is the hottest new addition in the desert that was once an innovative watch making country called the USA. With these pioneers it is finding its way back to its roots and re-establish the once renowned reputation.

PyroLume’s innovative approach really set it apart from many mainstream brands. The materials used for the dials are exotic and sometimes even unexpected, the designs stunning and innovative, it’s engravings the cherry on top. His expertise in luminous compounds literal shows, and provide easy reading of the time under almost all circumstances.

Something good is coming from the USA

The best move Pejman did was to focus on his strengths and find suppliers for the additional parts. This ensures a very high building quality, especially in reference to it’s price. It literal brings a well made, custom watch in the reach of the vast majority of the watch collecting community, and rightfully credits him to carry the title of doctor of dreams.

You can find PyroLume at PyroLume.com

© Copyright TimetatioN 2009

All rights reserved

Review

Breitling B-1

High flyer or Quartz crasher?

Breitling is one of the few brands that have always taken quartz-watches seriously. This strategy definitely paid off since Breitling is one of the very few Swiss watch brands that succeeded in creating quartz-watches that have a cult-status. Moreover, Breitling did not achieve this with just one model, they did it with 3! It started with the Aerospace, continued with the Emergency and ended so far with the B-1 (that recently evolved into the Airwolf.)

Overall appearance

None of these watches hide there battery-powered nature. Two prominent displays for the digital readout are visible on the dial. On this model there are not always as easy to spot since not only they are as black as the dial, but also because Breitling has a setting in which the digital readout on both displays can be turned off.

This Breitling is almost a guarantee for many first glances. Not only from watchenthousiats but also from people with no particular interest in watches. Big, shiny and busy are the key words. These words are not necessarily compliments, but for the B-1 they are! With a diameter of 43.2mm it is 0.2mm larger then the Emergency, combine this with a case from polished steel and you certainly have an eye-catcher.

Useful slide rule bezel

The B-1 lacks the familiar bezel with riders, a famous Breitling hallmark. Instead, it has a smooth bezel engraved with numerals that run from 0 to 60 with a luminous dot at the 0/60 mark. Although simple, this is ideal if you want to countdown a certain amount of time without activating the countdown timer. Down side is that it is not very precise and since the bezel moves both ways rather smoothly, you can accidentally turn the bezel while measuring.

The bezel runs so smooth because of an ingenious gear system that is built into it. This connects the bezel with the inside chapter ring of the dial; the slide rule. The slide rule feature is also the main reason why the dial of the B-1 is so busy. The beauty about it is that it is all functional. Without explaining the slide rule in great detail, it is basically a very cleaver system that turns your Breitling into an analog calculator. With a little practice (Breitling provides an enlarged cardboard version of the slide rule complication with the watch, along with detailed instructions) you can make currency conversions, multiply and even determine the decent rate of your plane. How often will you use such a feature? Well, quite a lot. Since it is so easy to use it is a great tool for the average (non-aviator) traveler, especially when your are moving from the metric into the Imperial system and vice versa.

Slide rule practice

Apart from creating a smooth motion does the gear train also turn the chapter ring about 20% faster then the bezel itself. As a result, you can get to the desired point on the slide rule very quickly.

Features

Apart from the bezel and the slide rule did Breitling load this B-1 up with so many features that they could be best described in a list;

• Perpetual calendar
• Analog time display (hour change can be made audible if desired)
• Digital time display (your choice if you want 12H or 24H format)
• Alarm
• Chronograph, capable of measuring down to 1/100^th of a second, and can maximal time 99 days, 23 hours and 59,99 seconds, with the option of split times and an add up function.
• Countdown timer that can maximally count down 99 days, 23 hours and 59,99 seconds
• Second time zone
• Alarm for second time zone
• UTC universal time
• Display backlighting that is compatible with night vision goggles

All together quite a list, but the beauty is that they are all very practical although you will most likely use one or two more then the others depending on your lifestyle.

The use of this wide variety of functions is very intuitive. The crown can be turned up or down to scroll through the various options and the classical chronograph buttons are used to start, stop or set the selected function. The buttons are very responsive, but at the same time not too sensitive, so accidental operations are rare.

Dial/hands

The dial of the B-1 is about a busy as a dial practically can be. This is mainly due to the slide rule, but also the numerals, Breitling logo and additional text do not really help. This can be an initial turn down for potential buyers, but rarely has almost all these things an actual function. Besides, when the digital functions are all switched off, the two displays provide an oasis of rest in a busy surrounding.

Because of the black dial on this B-1 you can only notice the displays by there slight glare, different from the rest of the dial. As soon as you switch to one of the digital functions, they become clearly visible.

Also clearly visible are the sword hands that indicate the analog hour and minute. They are very easy to distinguish on the black dial, so time can be read in a glance. The second hand is adorned with a red tip and the famous Breitling B with anchor at its base. This also set the B-1 apart from the Aerospace and Emergency, who do not have a second hand. Downside if that it is ticking clearly indicate that the B-1 is a quartz-watch. However, if that would be a turn off, you probably wouldn’t be interested in this watch in the first place.

Bright back light

Sometimes the second hand switched function. When the chronograph-function is selected, the second hand will automatically travel to the 12 o’clock position and function as analog second hand for the chronograph. When pressing the crown to activate the backlight function the second hand will stop for 20 seconds to preserve energy for as long as the backlight is on.

Case

As intimidating as the case might look due to size and thickness, as gentle it is when you finally put it around your wrist. Do not make any mistake, it still is a big and impressive sports watch, but it is certainly not “aggressive”. Its polished looks might give it a loud bark, but that isn’t followed by a bite when on the wrist. There are two reasons for this; first of all there is the bracelet that keeps the watch very stable, and therefore comfortable, around the wrist. Secondly, there is what might be the most beautiful case back on any watch. It is shaped like the turbine of a jet engine. This not only amplifies the sound of the alarm, but also positions it firmly on the wrist. Not in a bad sense by the way, because the blades of the jet engine are polished very smooth to maximize comfort.

No helium escape valve but a service hatch

The case itself is quite high but the only downside of is a small, round “service hatch” on the side of the case at 10 o’clock, that gives access to the actual gears for the bezel and slide rule chapter ring. This may allow easy maintenance but it sure isn’t making the case any prettier. Most watch enthusiasts often mistake it for a helium escape valve, but since the water resistance of this watch is only 50m/166ft that is not the case.

Sizes

0.Diameter 8 to 2:                                 43.2 mm

0.Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 47 mm

0.Lug width:                                           22 mm

0.Clasp width:                                        22 mm

0.Thickness:                                           16.5 mm

Movement

The movement Breitling uses in the B-1 is designated as caliber 68. This is based on the ETA E20.331. Since the B-1 hit the market in 1998, Breitling has “upgraded” the movement in two stages. The first stage was done in the year 2000. Although they did not change anything about the movement, from that time on the B-1 was Chronometer certified. This basically means that the B-1 may have a maximum yearly deviation of 25 seconds. Certifying the B-1 was part of the “all-Chronometer” challenge that Breitling set for itself in 1999, with as goal to be the first Swiss brand in history that has all it’s watches Chronometer certified.

Chronometer certified; a rarity for a quartz-watch

The Breitling in this review is produced in 2003 and one of the last that house caliber 68. In 2003 Breitling introduced caliber B78 in the B-1. This movement is based on the ETA E20.341. As part of the Thermoline movements made by ETA, this movement has one big advantage over its predecessor and that is that it is thermo compensated. This means that a tiny thermometer inside the movement monitors the temperature and adjusts the rate of the watch to compensate for any temperature difference that might make the watch more inaccurate. This can make the watch up to 20 times more accurate then a quartz-movement that doesn’t have this.

Although this sound very impressive, many users will never notice the difference between both calibers, although it is a step up in quality.

Bracelet

Unfortunately, there are not many innovative bracelet designs around. It is therefore quite exciting that the bracelet around the B-1 is part of that minority that actually is innovative. What Breitling did isn’t rocket science in design, but not an easy task in execution. The “cut” all the links at an angle, creating a very dynamic, yet though looking bracelet. The name “Fighter” is most certainly appropriate, especially with Breitling’s link with military aviation.

Cutting edge

The true beauty it that Breitling also cut the clasp at an angle, including the safety clasp. The clasp is nicely adorned with the Breitling-logo and founding year and although it is simple to use (just put your nail under it and flip it open) it does not say cheap. The folding part itself has also the Breitling-name written out in full in it, giving even a nice touch to the parts we don’t see as often.

The clasp also houses a simple but reliable micro-adjustment that works with a pushpin. Bigger adjustments can be made by adding or taking out a link. Breitling opted for a beautiful mechanism where the links are actually screwed down. This is the way we want to see it on a luxury watch! Solid, easy to use and it looks better too!

Screw down perfection

The bracelet consists out of three rows next to each other. Breitling gave the outer ones a nice mirror polish and the inner one a brushed finish. This ensures that the case matches the bracelet perfectly but might be not every bodies taste.

On the wrist

Putting the B-1 around the wrist almost feels like you are getting ready for take off. Its technical look and large size ensure that it is an eye catcher. The shiny case and the fact that it is so thick that most of your sleeves do not cover it, certainly add to this. At the same time it is also a very easy watch. It easily blends in with what your wearing and feels equally at home with a polo and khaki’s as with a suit and tie.

Of course, neither attires can shut the B-1’s scream for attention up. But that is not necessary because the B-1 doesn’t flaunt the fact that it is an Breitling, but more that it is a beautiful watch. Not many other “tool-watches” are capable of that. It is also a very likable watch, which most people find interesting.

The size, height and weight of the B-1 are nicely controlled by the superb bracelet. It’s the bracelet that keeps the watch firm at its place on the wrist and wears very comfortable. Nevertheless, there is also a downside; the crown that controls all the different settings may be big, it is also difficult to grasp underneath it without digging into your own skin. Also the crown guards do not help on this matter. This makes scrolling through the different functions slightly difficult and puts sometimes strange forces on the crown due to the stressed angles.

One of the most beautiful case backs around

Another disappointing thing is that the beautiful jet engine back of the B-1 is almost completely covered by skin when wearing it. This makes it that the amplified sound of alarm function etc. is rather weak. Especially in busy and/or noisy surroundings there is the risk that you actually don’t hear it. Fortunately, when placed on a night stand the B-1 makes enough noise to wake most people.

Talking about night, the B-1 has enough Luminova on the dial to bright up the room, and even when that died down you can always hit the button to activate the backlight. Breitling made the four numerals on the dial rather stylish. As stunning as the look during daytime, so confusing are they during nighttime. The thin parts of the numerals hardly glow up, making them difficult to identify at a glance. Of course they can be distinguished by there position and the hands glow enough to tell time, but it can be confusing for a second and Breitling could have done a better job.

Bright luminova with narrow numerals

Apart from these slight disappointments is the B-1 to its owner mainly an extremely practical watch. Especially when you are traveling it certainly proofs it’s value. You can easily determine if that nicely crafted watch box is indeed such a good deal by use the slide rule to convert the currency, you can set an alarm for when to wake up, but also to call home so that you don’t wake up the home front in there own time zone. You can even count down the days that you may go back home, or can leave altogether.

Phileas Fogg might have been a stylish gentleman, if he would have lived now he would have certainly traveled with a B-1 around his wrist, even though 80 days is a bit long to travel around the world in these modern times.

Packaging

Breitling delivers this B-1 in a cardboard box that is printed with an aviation theme on top of Breitling’s yellow color. The true gem is actually inside, not refereeing to the watch itself but to a very stylish box that takes us back to the early 1900’s. This box is crafted from Bakelite, one of the first plastics ever used. Although usually from a synthetic source, Breitling actually used Bakelite made from plants. A very beautiful way to store a watch although a bit of a contradiction with the high tech nature of the B-1.

Old fasionedly beautiful

Papers

Feel like going back to school? This Breitling certainly gives you a taste of it with its thick instruction booklet. This time not in all the 6912 languages spoken in the world, but actually explaining all the features of the B-1 in detail. To practice with the slide rule, Breitling even included a large cardboard dummy that works the same as the one on the watch. Of course is also the Chronometer certificate included.

Not bad to do this homework

Price

In 2003 Breitling had a EU asking price of € 2.270,-. This way its price start where most of Breitling’s time only, automatic watches left off. It also positions the B-1 in between of the Aerospace (€ 2.090,-) and the Emergency (€ 3.890,-), with it’s mechanical counterpart, the B-2, running for € 2.580,- Most of the other mechanical chronographs in Breitling’s line-up are substantially more expensive.

Competition

There are not many Swiss brands that take full advantage of what a high end, sophisticated quartz movement has to offer, but there are a few.  TAG Heuer offers the Kirium Formula 1 Chronograph on a bracelet for € 2.100,-, while Bell & Ross tries to get a piece of the market with it’s Fusion at € 1.960,-.

Although definitely interesting watches, there not as innovative as the ones Ventura has in it’s collection. The V-tec Alpha doesn’t only has the same features as the Bell & Ross and TAG Heuer, but packs it into a distinct case design with an innovative scroll knob to get through all the functions. At € 1.290,- it is also significantly less expensive then the previous.

Conclusion

The section for multi-functional, Swiss made, quartz watches turned out to be quite a niche in the market. Despite some strong competitors, Breitling rules this section and the B-1 is definitely the ace in the Royal Flush. It combines a whole arsenal of practical features that are easy to use.

Combine this with a well-crafted case, innovative bracelet and one of the most beautiful case-backs in the business you have an instant winner. This does not mean that the B-1 is the perfect watch, but Breitling comes very, very close, it did not cut any corners and is well worth its price.

The only thing one can have against the B-1 is that it is a quartz-watch. However, the Breitling never made a secret out of that and carries itself proudly, knowing that if you pass up this watch because of its battery powered nature it’s your loss and not his.

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Many watch collectors know the feeling; the desire to own a unique timepiece, created completely according your own ideas and wishes. Although possible, often the hefty price tag comes along with such a watch that prevents many to actually order such a watch.

A little teaser…

However, there is hope! After quite a quest it became clear that the address for bespoke sports watches can be found in no other place then….New Jersey, USA. Perhaps a surprise to many but it is actually here where a small company named Pyrolume creates custom watches that do fulfill dreams without breaking the bank!

Coming soon on TimetatioN.com is a full review on how this all takes place, including showing you up, close and personal the results.