TimetatioN

Times pass and change, this is no difference for TimetatioN. But all for the best! TimetatioN will be the new name of an exclusive watch brand that specializes in custom made watches.  More information will follow right here in the near future. My portfolio with the various articles that I write will continue to exist but then under the name Watchisthis?! Soon more about this exciting change!

Martin Green

There are brands that love to take the road less traveled. A good example of this is DeLaneau. They are Swiss, use high-end mechanical movements in precious metal cases, often adorned with diamonds and colored gemstones. Could be a great many of Swiss manufacturers, only DeLaneau’s watches are exclusively for women!

Women are not so much forgotten in modern day watch making, but the general consensus is that a smaller watch with a quartz movement and some gemstones makes a great watch for women. To some extent there is a lot of truth in this, but a growing number of women actually does care about what goes around inside the watch, and is not satisfied by a smaller men’s model with a quartz movement.

For those women DeLaneau has recently introduced a new model; the Open Magic. This watch is the second chapter of the famed Magic watch that DeLaneau introduced in 2010. However, where the Magic hides it’s dial by a gemstone encrusted sphere, is the Open Magic straightforward in showing the time.

That is about the only thing straightforward about this watch by the way. Just as the Magic (see photo left), has also the Open Magic a uniquely designed case that seemed to be more related to architecture then watch design. Yes, the case is round, but from the top two small straps go towards the buckle, where they are united again. Here a single strap flows up the other way until it meets a gold bar from which emerge two elegantly shaped gold wires that hold the case.

Besides this exceptional design does DeLaneau also have an eye for detail. The dial of the watch is made of Mother of Pearl with inlaid Onyx triangles, or the mirror image of this where Mother of Pearl and Onyx change places. 12 diamonds indicate the hours. These are not the only diamonds that adorn this precious watch. DeLaneau offers several versions with a total diamond weight that varies between the 1.56 and 5 carats.

The diamonds that DeLaneau use are all of exceptional high quality. The brilliant-cut diamonds are all from the colorless range (D to E grade) and have very very small inclusions (VVS1 grade). In addition, the used movement is a gem in its own right. A Frederic Piguet caliber 6.15 automatic movement is the timekeeper in this watch. The cal. 6.15 is basically the cal. 6.10 manual wind movement, but then with a winding mechanism mounted on it. Although this almost doubles the thickness of the movement (2.1 mm for the cal. 6.10 compared to 3.9 mm for the 6.15), it is still a perfect movement for a watch of this sort. A 40 hour power reserve makes it that a lady can easily switch from her Open Magic to her Magic for an evening out and still find the Open Magic running when she wants to put it on the next morning.

All together offers DeLaneau with the Open Magic again an exceptional watch in the tradition of their brand. High end, well made, mechanical, luxurious and unique; all together a perfect choice for a modern day woman who wants to get more out of her watch then just a pretty face.

More information about Delaneau watches can be found on the Delaneau website.

As published on Monochrome

Your mechanical watch? Obsolete, thing of the past, just trade it in for a nice new quartz watch and you will always be on time! Right now this sounds like an absurd proposition, especially to most watch collectors and connoisseurs, but in the early 1970’s it was reality.

Although Seiko was the first company to introduce a commercially produced quartz wristwatch on the market, the battle was still on in Switzerland for the position of runner up. Surprisingly it was not the Beta 21 joint venture (that included, amongst others, Omega, Rolex, Piaget and Patek Philippe), but Girard-Perregaux that was first.

Girard-Perregaux developed the movement in house, but with the help of some outside companies and experts. In the mid 1960’s Georges Vuffray, an electronics expert, was contracted to develop a quartz clock that later was miniaturized. Another participant was the American electronics giant Motorola. That is also why the integrated circuit inside the movement bears the Motorola-logo.

With the first series the housing of this integrated circuit was actually still made of ceramics instead of the later used plastics. Although the Girard-Perregaux movement shared the same basic components with the Beta 21, it was less complex executed. However compared to a modern day quartz movement, this is definitely another world. The most important accomplishment of the movement was its frequency of 32,768 Hz. This proved to be an optimum frequency and has even become the world standard for most quartz wristwatches!

Girard-Perregaux’s movement was also used by Favre-Leuba and Jaeger-LeCoultre in their Master Quartz-models. With a price of $320,- for the gold-plated model it was not a very cheap watch. Today this would be about $1.800,-. That is still quite inexpensive compared to the $11.500,- limited edition Laureato that Girard-Perregaux introduced in 2010 to commemorate the 40th birthday of their legacy into quartz.

A legacy it became indeed, because after their first model Girard-Perregaux continued to create and produce quartz movements. They developed them to such a degree that some of them had several complications including unusual ones like an indicator for the current sign of the zodiac. Also the finish on the later movements was exceptionally high, especially for a quartz watch. Geneva striping and gold battery covers were the standard and Girard-Perregaux even used sapphire backs to show off these movements. Perhaps not every collector’s cup of tea, but certainly a part of watch making history

As published on Monochrome

A legend amongst legends…

Vintage Panerai’s are already exciting, big, bold, unique and rare. Amongst them the Mare Nostrum is perhaps the most mystical, since it was Panerai’s only vintage chronograph. Although the re-make is not as big as the original one, the one offered for auction by Christie’s can for sure be called exciting, bold, unique and rare.

In 1943 Panerai developed the Mare Nostrum for deck officers and it was their first chronograph. Allegedly only a couple prototypes had been made before the Allied invasion (in Italy) prevented full scale production. Like all the other Panerais, the Mare Nostrum has become a timeless classic. So it was not strange that Panerai made a re-issue of this iconic watch.

In 1993 the Mare Nostrum was introduced for public sale. Panerai did make some alterations to the design. A 42mm case made the watch much more wearable than the 52mm case of the original prototype. The two layer dial of the prototype was replaced by a normal (one layer) dial and the smooth bezel was now engraved with a km/h scale and later with a tachymeter.

Panerai opted for a ETA 2801-2 with Dubois Depraz chronograph module to power the watch. Between 1993 and 1996 492 of these Mare Nostrums where produced plus an additional 100 equally divided between 2 editions that where specially made for Sylvester Stallone. One was identical to the regular Mare Nostrum with only the name “Slytech” added to the dial. The other one had also “Slytech” on the dial, but also had a smooth bezel, just like the original prototypes.

In March 1997 the Vendôme Luxury Group (now known as Richemont) purchased Panerai and did some slight retouches on the Mare Nostrums design. They re-worked the dial where they put the minute track on the outside of the hour markers instead of on the inside and the bezel got a polished inner ring with stripes marking the according speed indicated on the satin finished outer ring. It was available with 3 dial colors; reference PAM006 with a blue dial, PAM007 with a white dial (as offered by Christie’s in the upcoming auction) and PAM008 with a black dial (below is an early pre-Vendôme model with a km/h scale on the bezel).

Pre-Vendôme Panerai Mare Nostrum – photo by Martin Wilmsen 

In 2005 Panerai purchased an original Mare Nostrum prototype at Christie’s for 85.000,- euro’s. This watch is not only on display in the Panerai museum, but also gave Panerai the opportunity to examine the watch and bring out an almost identical limited edition. This limited edition, designated PAM300 (see photo below) was introduced at the 2010 SIHH, and nearly identical to the original prototypes. 99 where made and the only difference with the original one is the movement. Where the original housed an Angelus 215 manual wind chronograph movement, the modern limited edition PAM300 is powered by Panerai’s OP XXV movement, which is based on a Minerva movement with the same functions as the Angelus.

Panerai PAM300 – photo by Martin Wilmsen 

With 398 pieces in total, the Vendôme-serie was actually smaller in production numbers than the pre-Vendôme version of the Mare Nostrum. Its 1997 sales price of around 1.500 Euros, or back then approximately $ 1,365, was actually quite a bargain, especially considering the brand’s current rock star status it would have been a wise investment. Christie’s estimates the hammer price of this Mare Nostrum between $ 8,000 and $ 12,000. If a further price increase for this model is still unknown, but this auction does give collectors an option to add a relatively rare and early Panerai to their collection that stands out, not only by its case design, but also its mythical place in Panerai history. This Panerai Mare Nostrum with a white dial and tachymeter scale on the bezel (reference PAM007) is lot 19 in Christies New York auction held at Rockefeller Plaza on June 15th.

Photo credits of the last to photos go to Martin Wilmsen, who runs a blog called Wrist Watch Photo, with his splendid photos of mainly Panerai watches

As published on Monochrome

An unusual watch with an unusual time display made by an unusual watchmaker in a, for him, unusual case is coming up for auction at Christie’s upcoming New York auction on June 15th. This is the F.P.Journe Vagabondage I.

With the stunning F.P. Journe Vagabondage II you would almost forget that there also was a Vagabondage I. This model was introduced in 2004 for the 30^th birthday of auction house Antiquorum. Journe produced 3 Piece Unique’s, in white, yellow and rose gold, and all with a brass (!) movement, that Antiquorum auctioned in favor of ICM, a Paris based research facility specializes in the fight against brain and spinal cord diseases.

After these three watches Journe created 2 Limited Editions that where made between 2005 and 2006. A 10 piece limited edition created from platinum and set with baguette diamonds, and a 69 piece limited edition of the same watch but then without diamonds. Both feature movements in 18 karat gold, something Francois Paul Journe is known for. From the platinum only edition Christie’s auctions number 22 of 69.  

Main attraction with this watch is the unusual display of time. Prominent in the middle of the dial is the balance and escapement, that oscillates at a rate of 21.600 beats per hour. This is a regular escapement without a tourbillion carriage fitted, so it should not be confused with certain Omega’s or Haldimann’s central tourbillion. The time display is what Journe calls “wandering”; the number that is highlighted by the window indicates the hour and together they circle the dial, indicating the minute. This time display was also the inspiration for the name Vagabondage, which can be translated as “A journey taken for the sake of travelling with no set destination”.

The Vagabondage I was not only unique in the way it displays time, but it was also a break from Journe’s usual case designs. The case is referred to by Journe as “Tortue Plate” and offers an interesting display of matted and polished surfaces. Also the F.P. Journe name was absent of the dial, creating an even more intriguing time piece, although the back and movement are signed.

Christies estimates that the price of this Vagabondage will be between $ 35.000,- an $ 55.000,-. Most likely it will be closer to the latter since Antiquorum sold No. 61 of 69 in September of 2009 for $ 60.000,- including buyers premium.    

This Journe is lot 390 in Christies New York auction held at Rockefeller Plaza on June 15^th.

For more information about the entire collection, have a look at FP Journe’s website

As published on Monochrome

Hublot has yet to make its first ordinary watch. When introduced to the world in 1980 by creator and founder Carlo Crocco it might as well had come from a different planet.

A golden watch with a unusual yet distinctive port hole design on a vanilla scented rubber strap. As hot as this combo is nowadays, so not it was in the early 1980’s. But this creation was not lost for the world because it was embraced by a group of early adaptors. This group included the King of Spain, Juan Carlos, who became an avid fan of Hublot. This is also one of the reasons why Spain is still one of Hublot’s premier markets and it is rumored that their sales figures there even beat Rolex.

Over the next two and a half decades Hublot evolved slowly but certainly, creating watches that stayed loyal to the original design but added their own flavor to the Hublot-mix. Amongst them where watches like the Elegant, a model in which the lines of the original design where softened, and many models enhanced with the sparkling beauty of diamonds in Hublot’s Joaillerie line-up. But also models like the  Classic Regulateur, where the term classic refers to Hublot’s original design since the watch itself has a rather industrial look to it, and the unsual “ Classic Cover” where a steel or golden cover had to be opened before you where allowed to see the dial.

Being a relatively small brand in a niche of the market has Hublot never prevented from also creating some serious sports watches. Amongst them was a full range of chronographs, ranking from a Mecaquartz-model (based on Frederic Piguet caliber 1270) to automatic chrono’s powered by an ETA 2892 with Dubuis Depraz module and Frederic Piguets famous calibre 1185.

Another field in which Hublot was a serious contender was with divers watches. Starting with the 450 meter water resistant Super Professional Sport (those not afraid of a statement would order it with fuchsia!! dial) and ending with the very serious Subaquaneus Sport, a divers watch modest in size (40mm) but big on performance with a 2000 meter water resistant and an innovative turn lock system to set and secure the diving bezel.

All these accomplishments, more or less outside the limelight of the watch making world, where magnified to a grand scale when Hublot got a new CEO in 2004; Jean-Claude Biver. The big question back then was if Biver could do for Hublot what it had previously done for Blancpain? The answer was yes, and much faster than anybody could even imagine. Within six years Biver did not only octadrupled Hublot’s revenue, from an estimated 25 milion USD to over 200 million USD, but also let the evolution from Hublot’s original philosophy into the next level, which he called “The Art of Fusion”.

This new impulse to Hublot’s original design language resulted in a range of interesting, original and often innovative timepieces. It started in 2005 with the introduction of a watch, appropriately named Big Bang. With a diameter slightly over 44mm it was in a way a further evolution of the previous sport chronographs made by Hublot. This time the innovation was not just in the fusion of gold and rubber, by then embraced by watch manufacturers and consumer alike, but in the fusion of a wide variety of innovative materials, some that where even never combined in one watch. The Big Bang was an instant hit, grossing in prizes, amongst which the prize for best watch design in the 2005 edition of the Geneva Gran Prix d’Horlogerie, the watch worlds equivalent for the Oscars.

The first Big Bang made the way for a range of chronographs that feature a wide variety of “fusions” using materials like tungsten, ceramic, carbon, kevlar, steel, titanium, and the materials where it all started with; rubber and (matted) gold. But Hublot would not be Hublot if they didn’t pushed the envelope even further, and so they also incorporated grass in one of their watches. Not just any grass, but a few pieces from Manchester United’s Old Trafford football stadium. Hublot preserved this grass and uses them as hour markers in their King Power Red Devil Chronograph tailored and dedicated to the Manchester United soccer team.

Chronographs are not the only watches that Hublot offers today in their fusion-concept. Also divers watches are available. The Big Bang King Diver offers the same innovative mix of materials of the chronograph-range but then in a time only model with divers bezel. More extreme is it with the newly introduced Oceanographic 4000, which doubles the water resistant of the  Subaquaneus Sport to a whopping 4000 meters. Whopping also goes for the dimensions of the watch; the movement is protected by a case which is 48mm in diameter. Titanium and Carbon Fiber are the only options for the case, in order to keep the weight light enough for comfortable wear.

photo source: Hodinkee 

On the completely other end of the Hublot universe is the also recently introduced Big Bang 2 Million Euros. It is clear that the name indicates its value and that this is the successor of the previously introduced Big Bang 1 Million Euros. The fusion recipe for this watch is rather simple; you take a white gold case, with a white gold bracelet, fit it with a tourbillion movement and adorn it with 637 baguette cut diamonds and one rose cut diamont with a total carat weight of 143,48 carats. As simple as the recipe may sound, so difficult and time-consuming is the execution. Not only do all the diamonds need to be cut and polished, which took 45 gem cutters one month to do so, there is also the precise and dedicated work of actual setting the diamonds in the bracelet, case and dial of the watch which took another 2.000 hours. The result is sparkling, breathtaking and fusion in a whole other dimension.

Taking all these development into account make it hard to believe that Hublot is barely 30 years old. Yet the brand has proved that it has tremendious staying power by being true to its original idea; Fusion with the future, since 1980.

As posted on Monochrome

Catch the bug after a decade – a Patek Philippe Millennium (ref.5032J) will be auctioned at the upcoming Antiquorum auction in New York.

It is almost unbelievable but it has already been more than a decade ago since the world entered the new millennium. Despite this unique and joyful event, there was the dark shadow of the famous “Y2K” bug that promised black outs, meltdowns, total mayhem and, of course, the end of civilization as we knew it. Fortunately these doom-scenario’s did not keep watchmakers from creating limited editions to commemorated this special event. Very interesting of course, especially when the name of this watchmaker is Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe actually issued more than one model to commemorate the new millennium. Reference 5100J with their superb 10 days movement, a double-sided pocket watch with 21 complications named Star Caliber 2000 and a time-only model, reference 5032J. Antiquorum offers one of the latter in their June 8^th New York auction. Patek only made 100 pieces of this watch, which was also a yellow gold exclusive. Interesting is mainly the Breguet number 2 on the dial (the rest of the indices are dart shaped) as a reference to the new millennium and the ruby cabochon on the crown. This Patek is powered by caliber 240, an ultra thin automatic movement that uses an micro-rotor.

The “Millennium” that Antiquorum auctions in June is still sealed and therefore in exquisite condition, with all papers and box included. In the last decade Antiquorum auctioned about 5 ref.5032J “Millennium” watches. The estimate for this current one is between 15.000,-  to 20.000,- USD. The last “Millennium” that Antiquorum auctioned was in May 2007, and was sold for 23.600 CHF, or about 18.800 USD. It will be interesting to see what the result will be for this model in the upcoming auction, and how the value of this reference will further develop a decade after the Millennium.

This Patek Philippe Millennium 5032J is LOT number 112 of the Antiquorum auction in New York that will be held on June 8th

As published on Monochrome

The upcoming Antiquorum auction in New York offers once again an interesting array of watches, including stunning pieces like the Audemars Piguet – Maserati Anniversary Millenary MC12 with toubillon and chronograph, a vintage Rolex with full calendar (ref. 6062), a Vacheron Constantin Grande Complication and a… Festina!

Yes, you are reading this correctly, a Festina. A very unusual brand to be auctioned amongst so many high-end competitors and an Antiquorum first. Of course this Festina is not the average Festina, that you can pick up from your local retailer. The case is made of 18k pink gold and inside ticks an ETA 2892-A2.

This watch will for sure, offer its future owner an understatement around the wrist! This spectrum of the Festina collection has not yet gotten the praise, that for example Seiko received for its Grand Seiko collection. With an estimate of 3,000 to 4,000 USD the expected hammer price is most certainly not an understatement.    

Check out lot 89 of the upcoming Antiquorum auction in New York

As published on Monochrome

Introducing Martin Green as new contributor at Monochrome and he will kick off with a new topic called Old School. Today the Bertolucci Vir Diver or officially called Vir Maris.

“Latin charm and the inspiration of a pebble polished by the eternal caress of the waves” – with this credo Bertolucci presented its Vir collection in the 1990’s. Not an empty phrase because all of Bertolucci’s watches had cases and bracelets that where rounded and polished to a smooth perfection, much like the forementioned pebble. Especially nowadays their designs are a bit too elegant for most men. Amongst the various models of the older collection was a pretty serious diving watch, the Vir Maris or by collectors simply called Vir Diver.

It was serious because Bertolucci gave the Vir Maris almost all the hallmarks of a true diving watch. It had a screw down back and crown, which protected the chronometer certified ETA 2892-A2 up to 300 meters. Most unusual is the fact that Bertolucci opted for a cyclops on the sahpire crystal and managed to give it an entirely different look than Rolex! Main contributor to this are the original markers on the dial and an unusual shaped hour hand.

Another unusual thing was that the Vir Maris was available in three different steel/gold versions. The first version was equiped with gold hands, markers and the outer ring of the bezel. The two other versions had a full gold bezel. Other variations Bertolucci offered where a steel bracelet or a steel/gold bracelet. This sounds as unusual as it is, but with this Bertolucci it actually worked.

Minor points of the Vir Maris are that the divers bezel doesn’t have all the minute marks, the bracelet lacks a divers extention and that it is simply way too pretty to do any serious diving with. No, despite good credentials, the Vir Maris a more original choice for any pool playboy, other than the next COMEX-standard issue diving watch. The pool playboy wearing this Bertolucci was by no means a poser. With a 1997 price of  9900 DM (around 5,000 Euro) for the steel/gold version with steel/gold bracelet it costed much more than the 7875 DM (around 4,000 Euro) Rolex would charge you for a steel/gold GMT Master II…..

As published on Monochrome

When it comes to watch bracelets I think that Cartier is in a league of it’s own. No other brand has such a consistent history of bracelet designs that are innovative, comfortable and extremely well made. Cartier doesn’t cut corners on his matter and even graces many watch bracelets with a name of their own; Figaro, Grain de Riz, Boule, Anneaux, Goutte or Casque d’Or.

One of Cartier’s most legendary watches, the Santos, also comes on a bracelet, although this time without a specific name. In this short article we zoom in on the bracelets of a 1990’s Santos Ronde and a 2003 Santos Galbee. Almost a decade apart, they both feature strong and cleverly designed bracelets with one major difference; the clasp.

The first thing that draws your attention with the bracelet of the Santos Ronde are the links that almost fall over each other like the scales of a reptile or fish. Because the separate links are not too big, it comfortable follows the contours of your wrist, wither this is large or smaller. The clasp is clearly identified by the famous intertwined Cartier C, on this two-tone model made from gold. It has a micro adjustment with two settings so that you can differ between a summer and a winter setting.

The clearly defined clasp is the major difference between the old Santos bracelet and the newer. With the 2003 Santos Galbee it is almost impossible to see where the bracelet even opens. Combine this with the very sturdy construction of the clasp and opening the bracelet of your watch becomes a very conscious yet sometimes challenging task.

Because of the construction of the clasp also the folding parts at the inside of the bracelet differ between the two watches. The Santos Ronde has two parts that follow the inside of the wrist asymmetrical. Again a clever construction ensures maximum wearing comfort. Cartier made the parts itself quite thin, but reinforced the hinge. This way even the inside of the clasp follows your wrist nicely without sacrificing either comfort, sturdiness or durability.

The clasp on the Santos Galbee follows the same principle, only then twice since it features a butterfly clasp and so it has two folding parts, one on each side of the clasp. With the Santos Galbee they are positioned in the middle of the inside of the wrist. The wearing comfort is also here very high.

Apart from the construction it is also the finish that makes the claps on both watches so superb. Cartier polishes all the parts that are touching the wrist to the smooth perfection of pebbles that followed a stream all the way from its origin.

Cartier’s craftsmanship and determination for perfection regarding its bracelets and claps also have a dangerous side.  Combined with relatively small watches they wear so comfortable that it is quite easy to forget that you are wearing them at all. Fortunately the great clasp construction ensures that they will always be secure around your wrist, even when you have forgotten that they are there.

Personally I have a slight preference for the 1990’s clasp.  The micro adjustment gives enough space to cope with the four seasons while Cartier’s double C adds a sense of luxury but also clearly indicate where I can open the bracelet. That preference switches immediately when I put on the 2003 Galbee. A bracelet with a truly invisible clasp….even with today’s high standards still a rare feature.

As posted at Revo-Online’s Cartier-forum