Review
Hublot Classic
The true Big Bang

H for Hublot
With the arrival of the Big Bang and the media-circus around it, one would almost forget where the once niche-brand Hublot came from. It was in 1980 when Carlo Crocco introduced the Hublot classic in 18k gold with a rubber strap! A high end luxury watch with a rubber strap was something that was unheard of, and about as daring as when Audemars Piguet introduced the steel Royal Oak in a price-category no steel watch had ever gone before. For many years this watch was it for Hublot, since the brand stayed faithful to its monoproduct concept. You have to be very sure of your product to follow this strategy!
Overall appearance
The Hublot classic featuring in this review is from 1984, so basically one of the first Hublot’s. It is crafted in steel, but for the rest identical to the original design. Hublot means a ship’s porthole in French, and that is also the first thing that comes to mind when you see the Hublot classic. The overall design is quite industrial, especially with the rubber strap. But at the same time the watch has enough classical features to maintain a timeless design.

A French porthole
Features
Main feature on this watch is of course that design. The watch itself is not very complicated with only a date-function as “complication”. No, this watch really relies on its looks and craftsmanship to find its way to its buyer.
Dial/hands
Since the screws on the bezel are used as hour indicators is the dial pretty empty. Interesting is that it proudly mentions that it is a quartz. I don’t know many Swiss watches that still have the guts to do that. Another distinct feature about the watch is the bright white date ring. In this case it suits the industrial look of the watch, but a black one might look even better.

Quartz, and proud of it!
The hands are crafted from steel, and rely on the reflection of light to be noticed. Since there are only stamped and not folded that is not the case in any situation. For obvious reasons Hublot didn’t put any Luminova on the dial. Great for overall looks, but this watch definitely leaves you in the dark in low light conditions.
Case
The case is a true masterpiece. Delightful details in every corner and a highly complex structure truly make this watch! The combination of brushed and polished parts highlights the personality of this watch in an eye-catching way. Not many watches come with such an elaborate case that is truly unlike anything else.

Well crafted details
The bezel of the Classic is screwed in the case by 12 tiny screws which are standing out on the bezel instead of falling into it, like is the case with the Royal Oak. This strengthens the likeness with a ships porthole. The back is secured also by screws, only 6 this time but significantly larger.

The porthole’’s back
The sides of the case have a shoulder at 3 and 9 o clock. This is quite similar to the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Just like with the Nautilus doubles also the shoulder on 3 o’clock at the Hublot as a crown protection against impacts.
The Hublot Classic uses a metal retainer to secure the strap in by two screws. This retainer itself is also screwed between the lugs, creating an almost seamless transition from case to strap.

Where rubber meets metal
Sizes
- Diameter 8 to 2: 36 mm
- Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 38 mm
- Lug width: 17 mm
- Clasp width: 17 mm
- Thickness: 7 mm
Movement
The Hublot is from the 80’s, so one must forgive its quartz-movement. It actually suits the industrial design of the watch. Hublot uses ETA-movement 955.412 in this Classic, giving you a reliable and precise companion.
Hublot also made this watch with an automatic movement, again from ETA. This ETA 2892-A2 is similar to the one found in the Omega Seamaster Professional.
Strap
A feature about this watch that is not completely convincing is strangely enough the strap. Although nicely made in a matted finish and in theme with the rest of the watch it really limits the options. Hublot also applies its monoproduct concept on its straps. It is this strap and nothing else. Not even such a problem for this black dialed Classic, but when you want one of the other dial colors this strap is not always convincing. The watch would also look great on a calf, crocodile, lizard or even stingray-strap, but that’s not an option. Since Hublot uses a very distinct method of attaching the strap to the case and clasp even an after market strap will not fix that.
The strap on this Hublot was recently replaced, and revealing one of Hublot’s other trade marks; the vanilla scent in the strap. Hopefully the vanilla scent fades away some more because at times it made me almost nocuous.
On the wrist
The Hublot looks great on the wrist. It is really an eye catcher although not at all flashy. Time can be read from it quite easily, but the sapphire crystal has a nasty glare when exposed to sunlight. The watch is quite thin and not very heavy so comfortable to wear, but to a certain extend it was the strap that spoiled this. Since you buy it sized to your wrist and there is no way of altering this even for a millimeter later on. So even when activity, a change in season or weather, or god forbid a change in bodyweight, changes the size of your wrist, you have a problem. Buying multiple straps for this watch wont solve this problem because changing it is a hassle and also very costly since the two straps of rubber will set you back more then € 180,-.

No need for a razorblade
One thing that wasn’t helping for the wearing comfort was the clasp. The sides of the folding part are quite sharp, rasping over your skin like a razor blade when the watch moves on your wrist during activity. This is really a pity since you would expect perfect wearing comfort from a watch like this.

So well made, you almost need a crowbar
You also have to pull the clasp pretty hard in order for it to open. The clasp is also so well made that it is difficult to see which way you have to pull for it to open. These “yanking-procedures” don’t belong with a watch this high end, especially not when it has a rubber strap, because there where times when I was afraid to tear it off the clasp.
Packaging
The packaging of this Hublot is very nice. It looks like half a watch that you can open to two sides to reveal the watch. I unfortunately couldn’t take any pictures from the inside since time took a severe toll out of the box but it is a great way to present a watch, and also what one would expect from a box by such a high end brand.

Well put together
Papers
Just as the box presents Hublot the papers in a nice way. They move into an imitation leather cover, revealing the Hublot logo through a porthole. The only thing that throws you off is the fact that they used imitation leather. It would be so much nicer if they used actual leather, and the same goes for the case.
The papers itself have no much too them, and that is not really a surprise. There is very little to explain about how to operate this watch, but I think the production of this watch and its strap is fascinating enough to reveal to its owner.
Price
Unfortunately I couldn’t get the 1984 retail price but in 2004 this Hublot sold for € 2.200,- in the European Union. A hefty price for a quartz-watch with a rubber strap, and undoubtfuly just as hefty as the price was in 1984. But this Hublot was never created to be cheap (although its strap might indicate otherwise) and more as a design icon and a statement.
Competition
Competing with the design of the Hublot is tough, since there are not many watches who can rival its looks. This makes it difficult to compare to other watches. Xemex offers something slightly similar in the Offroad Nr. 1, although in a far simpler case design. Its price is also significantly lower, with € 580,- (2004 EU price level) for the version with an automatic movement. Similar in size, looks and iconic impact is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which sold in 2004 in the European Union for € 7.250,- in an automatic version.
One of Hublot’s old rivals, the Ebel Classic wave, might be the watch that comes the closest to the Hublot Classic. This watch is also an icon from the 1980’s and sold in 2004 on a bracelet for € 2.150,- (EU price level) with an automatic movement.
Conclusion
To really be able to appreciate this watch, one has to realize that it comes from a different era. The whole context of the watch industry has changed in the 25 years after this watch was created. Today it is almost more difficult to find a high end watch that doesn’t have a rubber strap, then one that does. Quartz is nowadays almost cursing, but in the 1980’s the preferred choice of many customers. Also the relatively small diameter of this Hublot was in line with the 80’s trends, but definitely not with today’s. The screwed on bezel and strap was something that became trendy in the 80’s, with not only the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak as another significant watch who had these details, but also the very popular Ebel’s. Today this feature is almost standard on high end sports watches.

An icon in watchmaking
The Hublot classic was a vision, and it proofed that this vision was in many cases far ahead of it’s time. That doesn’t make this Hublot classic a perfect watch. Although the strap itself is comfortable, the fact that you can’t make it longer or shorter is a major drawback, and contradicts the comfort one has from the strap. Also the clasp has room for improvement.
This Classic has definitely the purest design of all Hublot’s. That design is without a doubt the main reason to buy one. Thanks to its distinct looks it has very little competition, if it was only a little bit more comfortable to wear.
© Copyright TimetatioN 2009
All rights reserved