Review

Breitling B-1

High flyer or Quartz crasher?

Breitling is one of the few brands that have always taken quartz-watches seriously. This strategy definitely paid off since Breitling is one of the very few Swiss watch brands that succeeded in creating quartz-watches that have a cult-status. Moreover, Breitling did not achieve this with just one model, they did it with 3! It started with the Aerospace, continued with the Emergency and ended so far with the B-1 (that recently evolved into the Airwolf.)

Overall appearance

None of these watches hide there battery-powered nature. Two prominent displays for the digital readout are visible on the dial. On this model there are not always as easy to spot since not only they are as black as the dial, but also because Breitling has a setting in which the digital readout on both displays can be turned off.

This Breitling is almost a guarantee for many first glances. Not only from watchenthousiats but also from people with no particular interest in watches. Big, shiny and busy are the key words. These words are not necessarily compliments, but for the B-1 they are! With a diameter of 43.2mm it is 0.2mm larger then the Emergency, combine this with a case from polished steel and you certainly have an eye-catcher.

Useful slide rule bezel

The B-1 lacks the familiar bezel with riders, a famous Breitling hallmark. Instead, it has a smooth bezel engraved with numerals that run from 0 to 60 with a luminous dot at the 0/60 mark. Although simple, this is ideal if you want to countdown a certain amount of time without activating the countdown timer. Down side is that it is not very precise and since the bezel moves both ways rather smoothly, you can accidentally turn the bezel while measuring.

The bezel runs so smooth because of an ingenious gear system that is built into it. This connects the bezel with the inside chapter ring of the dial; the slide rule. The slide rule feature is also the main reason why the dial of the B-1 is so busy. The beauty about it is that it is all functional. Without explaining the slide rule in great detail, it is basically a very cleaver system that turns your Breitling into an analog calculator. With a little practice (Breitling provides an enlarged cardboard version of the slide rule complication with the watch, along with detailed instructions) you can make currency conversions, multiply and even determine the decent rate of your plane. How often will you use such a feature? Well, quite a lot. Since it is so easy to use it is a great tool for the average (non-aviator) traveler, especially when your are moving from the metric into the Imperial system and vice versa.

Slide rule practice

Apart from creating a smooth motion does the gear train also turn the chapter ring about 20% faster then the bezel itself. As a result, you can get to the desired point on the slide rule very quickly.

Features

Apart from the bezel and the slide rule did Breitling load this B-1 up with so many features that they could be best described in a list;

• Perpetual calendar
• Analog time display (hour change can be made audible if desired)
• Digital time display (your choice if you want 12H or 24H format)
• Alarm
• Chronograph, capable of measuring down to 1/100^th of a second, and can maximal time 99 days, 23 hours and 59,99 seconds, with the option of split times and an add up function.
• Countdown timer that can maximally count down 99 days, 23 hours and 59,99 seconds
• Second time zone
• Alarm for second time zone
• UTC universal time
• Display backlighting that is compatible with night vision goggles

All together quite a list, but the beauty is that they are all very practical although you will most likely use one or two more then the others depending on your lifestyle.

The use of this wide variety of functions is very intuitive. The crown can be turned up or down to scroll through the various options and the classical chronograph buttons are used to start, stop or set the selected function. The buttons are very responsive, but at the same time not too sensitive, so accidental operations are rare.

Dial/hands

The dial of the B-1 is about a busy as a dial practically can be. This is mainly due to the slide rule, but also the numerals, Breitling logo and additional text do not really help. This can be an initial turn down for potential buyers, but rarely has almost all these things an actual function. Besides, when the digital functions are all switched off, the two displays provide an oasis of rest in a busy surrounding.

Because of the black dial on this B-1 you can only notice the displays by there slight glare, different from the rest of the dial. As soon as you switch to one of the digital functions, they become clearly visible.

Also clearly visible are the sword hands that indicate the analog hour and minute. They are very easy to distinguish on the black dial, so time can be read in a glance. The second hand is adorned with a red tip and the famous Breitling B with anchor at its base. This also set the B-1 apart from the Aerospace and Emergency, who do not have a second hand. Downside if that it is ticking clearly indicate that the B-1 is a quartz-watch. However, if that would be a turn off, you probably wouldn’t be interested in this watch in the first place.

Bright back light

Sometimes the second hand switched function. When the chronograph-function is selected, the second hand will automatically travel to the 12 o’clock position and function as analog second hand for the chronograph. When pressing the crown to activate the backlight function the second hand will stop for 20 seconds to preserve energy for as long as the backlight is on.

Case

As intimidating as the case might look due to size and thickness, as gentle it is when you finally put it around your wrist. Do not make any mistake, it still is a big and impressive sports watch, but it is certainly not “aggressive”. Its polished looks might give it a loud bark, but that isn’t followed by a bite when on the wrist. There are two reasons for this; first of all there is the bracelet that keeps the watch very stable, and therefore comfortable, around the wrist. Secondly, there is what might be the most beautiful case back on any watch. It is shaped like the turbine of a jet engine. This not only amplifies the sound of the alarm, but also positions it firmly on the wrist. Not in a bad sense by the way, because the blades of the jet engine are polished very smooth to maximize comfort.

No helium escape valve but a service hatch

The case itself is quite high but the only downside of is a small, round “service hatch” on the side of the case at 10 o’clock, that gives access to the actual gears for the bezel and slide rule chapter ring. This may allow easy maintenance but it sure isn’t making the case any prettier. Most watch enthusiasts often mistake it for a helium escape valve, but since the water resistance of this watch is only 50m/166ft that is not the case.

Sizes

0.Diameter 8 to 2:                                 43.2 mm

0.Diameter 9 to 3 including crown: 47 mm

0.Lug width:                                           22 mm

0.Clasp width:                                        22 mm

0.Thickness:                                           16.5 mm

Movement

The movement Breitling uses in the B-1 is designated as caliber 68. This is based on the ETA E20.331. Since the B-1 hit the market in 1998, Breitling has “upgraded” the movement in two stages. The first stage was done in the year 2000. Although they did not change anything about the movement, from that time on the B-1 was Chronometer certified. This basically means that the B-1 may have a maximum yearly deviation of 25 seconds. Certifying the B-1 was part of the “all-Chronometer” challenge that Breitling set for itself in 1999, with as goal to be the first Swiss brand in history that has all it’s watches Chronometer certified.

Chronometer certified; a rarity for a quartz-watch

The Breitling in this review is produced in 2003 and one of the last that house caliber 68. In 2003 Breitling introduced caliber B78 in the B-1. This movement is based on the ETA E20.341. As part of the Thermoline movements made by ETA, this movement has one big advantage over its predecessor and that is that it is thermo compensated. This means that a tiny thermometer inside the movement monitors the temperature and adjusts the rate of the watch to compensate for any temperature difference that might make the watch more inaccurate. This can make the watch up to 20 times more accurate then a quartz-movement that doesn’t have this.

Although this sound very impressive, many users will never notice the difference between both calibers, although it is a step up in quality.

Bracelet

Unfortunately, there are not many innovative bracelet designs around. It is therefore quite exciting that the bracelet around the B-1 is part of that minority that actually is innovative. What Breitling did isn’t rocket science in design, but not an easy task in execution. The “cut” all the links at an angle, creating a very dynamic, yet though looking bracelet. The name “Fighter” is most certainly appropriate, especially with Breitling’s link with military aviation.

Cutting edge

The true beauty it that Breitling also cut the clasp at an angle, including the safety clasp. The clasp is nicely adorned with the Breitling-logo and founding year and although it is simple to use (just put your nail under it and flip it open) it does not say cheap. The folding part itself has also the Breitling-name written out in full in it, giving even a nice touch to the parts we don’t see as often.

The clasp also houses a simple but reliable micro-adjustment that works with a pushpin. Bigger adjustments can be made by adding or taking out a link. Breitling opted for a beautiful mechanism where the links are actually screwed down. This is the way we want to see it on a luxury watch! Solid, easy to use and it looks better too!

Screw down perfection

The bracelet consists out of three rows next to each other. Breitling gave the outer ones a nice mirror polish and the inner one a brushed finish. This ensures that the case matches the bracelet perfectly but might be not every bodies taste.

On the wrist

Putting the B-1 around the wrist almost feels like you are getting ready for take off. Its technical look and large size ensure that it is an eye catcher. The shiny case and the fact that it is so thick that most of your sleeves do not cover it, certainly add to this. At the same time it is also a very easy watch. It easily blends in with what your wearing and feels equally at home with a polo and khaki’s as with a suit and tie.

Of course, neither attires can shut the B-1’s scream for attention up. But that is not necessary because the B-1 doesn’t flaunt the fact that it is an Breitling, but more that it is a beautiful watch. Not many other “tool-watches” are capable of that. It is also a very likable watch, which most people find interesting.

The size, height and weight of the B-1 are nicely controlled by the superb bracelet. It’s the bracelet that keeps the watch firm at its place on the wrist and wears very comfortable. Nevertheless, there is also a downside; the crown that controls all the different settings may be big, it is also difficult to grasp underneath it without digging into your own skin. Also the crown guards do not help on this matter. This makes scrolling through the different functions slightly difficult and puts sometimes strange forces on the crown due to the stressed angles.

One of the most beautiful case backs around

Another disappointing thing is that the beautiful jet engine back of the B-1 is almost completely covered by skin when wearing it. This makes it that the amplified sound of alarm function etc. is rather weak. Especially in busy and/or noisy surroundings there is the risk that you actually don’t hear it. Fortunately, when placed on a night stand the B-1 makes enough noise to wake most people.

Talking about night, the B-1 has enough Luminova on the dial to bright up the room, and even when that died down you can always hit the button to activate the backlight. Breitling made the four numerals on the dial rather stylish. As stunning as the look during daytime, so confusing are they during nighttime. The thin parts of the numerals hardly glow up, making them difficult to identify at a glance. Of course they can be distinguished by there position and the hands glow enough to tell time, but it can be confusing for a second and Breitling could have done a better job.

Bright luminova with narrow numerals

Apart from these slight disappointments is the B-1 to its owner mainly an extremely practical watch. Especially when you are traveling it certainly proofs it’s value. You can easily determine if that nicely crafted watch box is indeed such a good deal by use the slide rule to convert the currency, you can set an alarm for when to wake up, but also to call home so that you don’t wake up the home front in there own time zone. You can even count down the days that you may go back home, or can leave altogether.

Phileas Fogg might have been a stylish gentleman, if he would have lived now he would have certainly traveled with a B-1 around his wrist, even though 80 days is a bit long to travel around the world in these modern times.

Packaging

Breitling delivers this B-1 in a cardboard box that is printed with an aviation theme on top of Breitling’s yellow color. The true gem is actually inside, not refereeing to the watch itself but to a very stylish box that takes us back to the early 1900’s. This box is crafted from Bakelite, one of the first plastics ever used. Although usually from a synthetic source, Breitling actually used Bakelite made from plants. A very beautiful way to store a watch although a bit of a contradiction with the high tech nature of the B-1.

Old fasionedly beautiful

Papers

Feel like going back to school? This Breitling certainly gives you a taste of it with its thick instruction booklet. This time not in all the 6912 languages spoken in the world, but actually explaining all the features of the B-1 in detail. To practice with the slide rule, Breitling even included a large cardboard dummy that works the same as the one on the watch. Of course is also the Chronometer certificate included.

Not bad to do this homework

Price

In 2003 Breitling had a EU asking price of € 2.270,-. This way its price start where most of Breitling’s time only, automatic watches left off. It also positions the B-1 in between of the Aerospace (€ 2.090,-) and the Emergency (€ 3.890,-), with it’s mechanical counterpart, the B-2, running for € 2.580,- Most of the other mechanical chronographs in Breitling’s line-up are substantially more expensive.

Competition

There are not many Swiss brands that take full advantage of what a high end, sophisticated quartz movement has to offer, but there are a few.  TAG Heuer offers the Kirium Formula 1 Chronograph on a bracelet for € 2.100,-, while Bell & Ross tries to get a piece of the market with it’s Fusion at € 1.960,-.

Although definitely interesting watches, there not as innovative as the ones Ventura has in it’s collection. The V-tec Alpha doesn’t only has the same features as the Bell & Ross and TAG Heuer, but packs it into a distinct case design with an innovative scroll knob to get through all the functions. At € 1.290,- it is also significantly less expensive then the previous.

Conclusion

The section for multi-functional, Swiss made, quartz watches turned out to be quite a niche in the market. Despite some strong competitors, Breitling rules this section and the B-1 is definitely the ace in the Royal Flush. It combines a whole arsenal of practical features that are easy to use.

Combine this with a well-crafted case, innovative bracelet and one of the most beautiful case-backs in the business you have an instant winner. This does not mean that the B-1 is the perfect watch, but Breitling comes very, very close, it did not cut any corners and is well worth its price.

The only thing one can have against the B-1 is that it is a quartz-watch. However, the Breitling never made a secret out of that and carries itself proudly, knowing that if you pass up this watch because of its battery powered nature it’s your loss and not his.

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