Special straps; curse or virtue?

A strap makes the watch. It adds character and can literary change the whole look of a watch around. Take for example Panerai, who’s watches are all very close together in style and design, yet at the same time can look totally different depending which strap you put on the watch. This was certainly one of the strengths of this brand, and undoubtfull contributed to its success. Ironically, many of those straps came from third parties, which sometimes even completely specialized in making straps for Panerai’s. A smart tactic, because despite the fact that Panerai probably let some money go by on the sale of straps, the increasing popularity of their watches probably made that up for that in ten fold.

A lot of choice for Panerai fan’s

Unfortunately is this not the approach most watch manufacturers choose. More often then not they charge high prices for straps, but sometimes it seems that all reason goes out the door. In 2009 Breitling sold relatively simple plain leather straps for € 120,-. Well known strap manufacturers like Rios and DiModell sold a similar quality strap for about one quarter of the price Breitling asks.

That brands charge more for a strap then a third party supplier is of course logical. Most watch brands do not make the straps themselves, so they have a supplier that makes it for them. In addition, their retailers need to make money on the sale of a strap; so more chains lead to a higher price.

Straps are a nice and relatively steady source of income for the brands and their retailers. Even if a customer does not buy a new watch, sooner or later he will need to replace the strap. It seems that there is a current trend in which watch manufacturers make sure that the only place where a customer can buy a strap that fit’s his precious watch is the official retailer.

Perfect fit…for a price

Two brands know this strategy already longer; Ebel and Bertolucci. Both brands favored a system in which the straps are secured by two screws coming from underneath the case. This does indeed ensures a beautiful and almost seamless fit of the strap, but replacement straps are hard to come by. Official dealers have them, but you pay a high price for a very limited selection of colors and types of leather. In case of Bertolucci the added problem is that it’s retailer coverage has been cut back dramatically in the last couple of years, leaving proud owners in some countries with no dealers to turn to for something as simple yet crucial as a new strap.

Watch horror; Need new strap yet no dealer to supply it

Sometimes demand solves the problem. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore is another watch that asks a very specific type of strap. At first only Audermars Piguet itself was able to provide you with one, but thanks to the enormous success of this model range, you now also see third party suppliers taking the plunge and invest in the development and tools to make such straps.

With the Royal Oak Offshore this is also possible because the strap itself does not require any special fittings or parts, it is attached to the case by a tube that goes through the holes of the strap. The in 2009 introduced IWC Aquatimer 2000 uses a system in which you secure the strap by a kind of lever that you push in the case. Very smooth, very user-friendly, but again a replacement strap can only come from IWC.

User friendly with a watchlife commitment to IWC

Another current trend are technically advanced straps that are part of the architecture of the watch. Linde Werdelin as well as Concord make watches with beautifully “integrated” straps. Great to see and often innovative, but also so advanced that a third party supplier will probably think twice before it starts to make straps that will fit.

Strap architecture

An additional aspect that might play a role how recognizable the overall look of the watch is. When a specific watch can only be fitted with a limited type of straps, you sell a lot of more or less similar watches, creating a very recognizable look. This is attractive for the brand itself, which can market a clear and constant look, but also for (potential) owners who enjoy a watch that can easier be identified by other people.  Hublot is a brand that already knew this from day one. Just like with the early Ford’s you could order any color as long as it was black…and rubber for that matter.

In the end it is still the consumer that decides wither the choice from brand and model is enough to show his individual taste, and pays the price that comes with it, or that a strap is something that should be able to change with the seasons, or simply with that great new shirt your tailor just delivered.

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